Climzalot Posted March 5, 2002 Share Posted March 5, 2002 A partner and I climbed the Triple Couloirs route this weekend. The route consisted mostly of snow climbing with very little ice to be found. The first couloir was perfect neve and went pretty fast. Instead of heading up the 2nd couloir we opted to continue up the 1st couloir and get out on to the North Face. Climbing on the face was steep sugar snow with and included a mixed step to gain the notch behind the tower mentioned in the Select book. The 3rd couloir was fairly decent 45-50 degree snow. Approach and decent conditions are great. We ditched skis at the Stuart Lake trailhead and covered the rest of the approach in boots only. Thank for the boot pack whomever you kind souls are. The route is in really fun shape but if you are looking for an alpine ice climb you might want to wait a bit for this one. Enjoy! cgentzel@aai.cc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 5, 2002 Share Posted March 5, 2002 Nice work. Now here comes half of seattle! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertm Posted March 5, 2002 Share Posted March 5, 2002 no offense but you didn't climb Triple couloirs you climbed the Northface via Hidden couloir. The second section of the 3Cs is the ass pucker section especially in thin conditions which more often than not seems to be the case. The north face is a good climb and getting into the last coulior can be a challenge. Beats sitting on the couch in any case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Climzalot Posted March 5, 2002 Author Share Posted March 5, 2002 I guess you are correct on that detail. I would hesitate to call this route "the north face via the hidden couloir" though because 3/4ths of the route was the same as the triple couloirs. We definitely avoided the so called crux section of the climb (the 2nd couloir). Had conditions on this section been different it would have been the way to go but the lack of ice and amount of snow in the gully made us think twice about heading up there. Again this was just our opinion based on visual inspection of the 2nd couoloir rather than actually climbing into it for verification. Conditions may be fine once you are higher in the 2nd couloir but they did not look to great lower down. Either way, its is still a good mountain climb and plenty exciting regardless of route choices and variations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted March 5, 2002 Share Posted March 5, 2002 robertm, thats a nitpick that most climbers overlook...? I would wager half of all ascents of "TC" have bypassed 2nd couloir altogether, but it shouldnt matter its only 100 yards right and the climbing isnt much easier. To further illustrate my point, hypothetically now: If I climb the North Ridge of Stuart but dont climb the direct start, I have not climbed the North Ridge of Stuart? If I dont climb the 2 pitches on the Gendarm, rather opt for the rap, I have not climbed the North Ridge of Stuart? But since the first ascent didnt climb the Gendarm, then if you *do* climb the Gendarm, you havent climbed the North ridge of Stuart? who cares, its the North Ridge of Stuart, and you'll ahve awesome memories and an awesome climb any little way you do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertm Posted March 5, 2002 Share Posted March 5, 2002 So by that logic if I have climbed Dreamer I also have climbed Giants Tears(90% of the climb is the same)? I don't take anything away from the climbers that did the N.face route on Dragontail. I have climbed the route twice and it is a excellent route. However, you are avoiding a key section of the 3Cs climb... in fact the entire 2nd coulior... for which the route is named. The fact that the Hidden coulior variation was done much earlier than the complete 3Cs owes to the fact that the second coulior can be intimidating and hard. With the N. ridge of Stuart you either climb the Gendarme variation or you don't... you climb the complete N. ridge or you don't. You still in the end climb Mt. Stuart but not in the same style as those who choose to tackle the more difficult options. You can climb Half dome via the cables route or do Southern Belle. In both cases you have climbed Half dome but by drastically different means. In the end climbing and mountaineering are about personal satisfaction and achieving your own goals. Who really gives a shit about what I or anyone else has to say as long as you have fun and climb that what inspires you. Good job Climzalot on a climb well done... did you continue to the true summit from the top of the 3rd couliour? :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted March 5, 2002 Share Posted March 5, 2002 Robert, I suppose I could continue to rationalize lots of different things, but in my heart I am thinking "now I have to go back and do Second, dammit!", so I guess I agree with you Oh well, something to look forward to I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highclimb Posted March 6, 2002 Share Posted March 6, 2002 right on alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 7, 2002 Share Posted March 7, 2002 Sounds like you guys had fun. Climbing over the rock the way you guys did into the final couloir can sometimes be nasty If it is getting a full on runoff of meltwater. When completely soaked and without any ice, the section is easily M5 whereas the "crux" of climbing directly from the 1st couloir into the second couloir if thickly iced is slabby by modern standards. Also both variations share about 75 percent of the same terrain and many springs their is little or no ice to be found on the "crux". Who cares--- it is all climbing.Keep it real. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Posted March 25, 2002 Share Posted March 25, 2002 Skied up to Colchuck Lake Saturday, and soloed Triple Couloirs today. I did the direct up the runnels to the second couloir, which was about AI3. The Hidden, Second, and Third couloirs were soft, but not wallowing. The direct runnels are definitely in good shape to be climbed, with most of it on hero-swinging alpine ice. It was nice to have already done the descent twice before, as the visibility went completely to shit as I topped out. In general, the route is in fine shape, and will probably get better in the next couple weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade Posted March 30, 2002 Share Posted March 30, 2002 I assume that the road to the trailhead is still closed so you start from the turnout? Ade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Posted April 1, 2002 Share Posted April 1, 2002 Two parties climbed Triple Couloirs today, and Wayne and I climbed the August 1971 route (direct north face). It went at about AI3, 5.7 I would estimate, and was in good shape. Hopefully the two Triple Couloirs parties are OK, as the wind was starting to blow quite hard while they were still up there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted April 1, 2002 Share Posted April 1, 2002 Dang Colin ,I cant even make it home and you have already got the post up. Nice workin with you today. It isnt everyday you can free solo 2200 feet of kill ice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayborbon Posted April 1, 2002 Share Posted April 1, 2002 Hello, Homies from Wenatchee and Veggie and I made it off Triple C fine. Damn it was windy. Maybe I should write a gapewad TR. IF I spray in my TR will you guys move it to spray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted April 2, 2002 Share Posted April 2, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Colin: Two parties climbed Triple Couloirs today, and Wayne and I climbed the August 1971 route (direct north face). It went at about AI3, 5.7 I would estimate, and was in good shape. Hopefully the two Triple Couloirs parties are OK, as the wind was starting to blow quite hard while they were still up there. A13, wow that is some hard aid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted April 3, 2002 Share Posted April 3, 2002 With AI3, the pro will kill you before you can place it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted April 3, 2002 Share Posted April 3, 2002 [ 04-02-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted April 8, 2002 Share Posted April 8, 2002 Necronomicon and I did tripple c's Bellingham to Bellingham yesterday. All 3 are in good, maybe a little soft. Bring snowshoes to the lake as we saw and incredible amount of hospital-sending post-holes. I pity anyone who feels like skiing up there. Road will be closed for a while, lots of snow and trees higher up. Bring 1 8-9mm rope, a few (4) screamers/long runners, a selection of thin bugaboos and angles, and cams in the .5,.75,1,or two range(almost useless). Easy solo conditions right now. Hard part is traversing from 2nd into 3rd couliour (keep your eyes open). As for Climzalot & Seth, way to go on your early ascent. Conditions must've been way harder. All that talk Mr. Shithead threw you is a load of crap! How fucking contrived about a route can you get? Its not a damned sport climb! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayborbon Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 Hi Layton,Actually it is correct that the NF route does not climb the section between Hidden and 2nd Couloir. Either way it is fun I am sure. I got a photo of the fatty conditions from last week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Climzalot Posted April 9, 2002 Author Share Posted April 9, 2002 Well done Mr. Layton. Quite a change in environments for you in a short time span. From Vegas, sandstone, and sunshine to Leavenworth, snow, and spindrift in a matter of days. Hardcore does not even begin to describe you. Nice job sir. Coley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Climzalot: Well done Mr. Layton. Quite a change in environments for you in a short time span. From Vegas, sandstone, and sunshine to Leavenworth, snow, and spindrift in a matter of days. Hardcore does not even begin to describe you. Nice job sir.Coley can i vomit with all the sunshine being blown here?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Necronomicon Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 Anuses. My knob hangs into my sock now, that's all I are about. Ladies? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 quote: can i vomit with all the sunshine being blown here?? Sure. What color does this thread make you feel? quote: Actually it is correct that the NF route does not climb the section between Hidden and 2nd Couloir. Either way it is fun I am sure. I know, I know. It's just that differentiating between the two seems contrived. Both climb the north face of dragontail and share most of the same terrain. It's like doing a variation on any other long alpine snow/ice route. It's just a name thing. If there was much technical difference between the two variations, maybe I'd conceede. I'm just sticking up for Climzalot. I just thought it was pretty low to put down their accompishment right after they climbed it by throwing some nitpicky technicality in there. Anyway, it only matters to .0000001% of the population anyway. If I ever do a new route on a north face, I'll use a 6 inch wide indellible marker to show the route. That way any variation will count. All that matters is your experience. quote: Anuses. My knob hangs into my sock now, that's all I are about. Ladies? Please keep it there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 The North Face variation is harder than the 'classic' route when it is well iced anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 quote: I know. It's just that differentiating between the two seems contrived. Both climb the north face of dragontail and share most of the same terrain. It's like doing a variation on any other long alpine snow/ice route. It's just a name thing. If there was much technical difference between the two variations, maybe I'd conceede. I'm just sticking up for Climzalot. I just thought it was pretty low to put down their accompishment right after they climbed it by throwing some nitpicky technicality in there. Anyway, it only matters to .0000001% of the population anyway. If I ever do a new route on a north face, I'll use a 6 inch wide indellible marker to show the route. That way any variation will count. I am going to do v2 boulder problem sitdown start to the north ridge of stuart this summer and call it North ridge Superduper Direct Start and only people that do the sit start can claim that they did the route Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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