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verticalwanderer

Oregon Jack?? (The one just S. of Lillooet??)

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Has anyone on here EVER climbed it? Anybody seen it recently? In?? Worth climbing when it is in? I just ran across it in the West Coast Ice Book and the pic made it look awesome. Looking for a first hand account. Cheers.

bigdrink.gif

Edited by verticalwanderer

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it is fun and worth doing. It will possibly be in this weekend, who knows. It is a fairly long ways from any other climbs though, which can make for a day of limited climbing unless you are the only party there and can just run laps on it. If it's in though it can be popular and good citizenship would suggest you take your turn then let others go. Often dinner-platey.

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also it is not S. of Lillooet ... it is NE of lillooet by more than 1 hr of driving.

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I heard that it wasn't in last week so if the cold snap has made it form up, it will be fragile and new

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Has anyone on here EVER climbed it? Anybody seen it recently? In?? Worth climbing when it is in? I just ran across it in the West Coast Ice Book and the pic made it look awesome. Looking for a first hand account. Cheers.

bigdrink.gif

 

 

how to climb Oregon Jack:

step 1: buy the guide,

step 2: follow the instructions.

 

but seriously, it IS a great route - nice climbing, superb location. as you say, awesome!

 

a few detailed suggestions beyond the guide info:

 

go very early - there's really only room for one party at a time; eat a big breakfast in Cache Creek at 6 a.m. (Petrocan at N end of town is open 24 hrs); plan to be at end of road by 8 a.m. - latest! packed and ready to walk...

 

new trail breaks left away from road about 300m beyond parking spot. DO NOT cross fence and fields down by parking spot. 20 min approach.

 

you should easily be able to climb and rap the route in 2-3 hours; then head over the Marble Canyon for a cpl hrs to finish out the afternoon before hitting the fleshpots of Lillooet.

 

agreed with other comments that it might not be in; check it out early - still time to get to M/C if it's screwed.

 

cheers, don

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Up there 2 weeks ago--no sign of ice even though the entire area was "frozen" Maybe climbers pissed off the rancher by damaging his fence. Didn't even see any water flowing . Did not walk to base because there was nothing visible from the corner before the parking lot.

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I just got a call from a friend who climbed OJ on the weekend, he said they had it to themselves for the day (whereas Marble sounded v. busy). He had to park back by the last cabins/ houses, and there were no tracks into the falls.

 

He said it was thin but fun, the screws were squeaking as they went in and lots of dinner-plating. He noted a bulgy, cauliflower section just before the tree/ ledge at the 3/4 point.

 

So anyway, he rapped near dark and his two ropes got stuck, and his g/f was ready to go (home cry.gif). So, hanging down OJ are a couple of ropes; one is a 10.5mm fuzzy blue caterpillar that is close to retirement, the other is a new, dry 7.5mm. Booty is booty, but if you happen upon the ropes and you're feeling generous, he can be contacted at tedtiger@hotmail.com. wave.gif

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So anyway, he rapped near dark and his two ropes got stuck, and his g/f was ready to go.

 

i'll bet he rapped off the two bolts on the wall up around the corner to the right - whoever placed those should be platooned to rescue whatever ropes get stuck - terrible positioning - what WERE they thinking? Lyle (or Garry) why don't u "suggest" to the outdoor school guys at Kamloops that replacing those bolts in a more "puller-friendly" position would be a useful piece of community service.

cheers,

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i'll bet he rapped off the two bolts on the wall up around the corner to the right - whoever placed those should be platooned to rescue whatever ropes get stuck - terrible positioning - what WERE they thinking?

 

that is likely the case, they are placed in an unfortunate location. speaking of booty, on the FA of OJ I dropped a new Chouinard screw and it landed about a metre from the belayer who watched it land in the powder. He waited 'til I topped out before looking for it, and we never did find it madgo_ron.gif. I went back the next spring to get it, and of course there was a pool at the base with a silty bottom, it's still there somewhere.

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