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Best belay device to date? Anybody used one?


Alpinfox

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Black Diamond ATC-Guide

620051_atc_guide.jpg

$25 MSRP

 

-Autolocking mode like Reverso (but no sharp edges like reverso)

-High friction mode for skinny cord raps

 

Looks sweet!

 

Anybody used one?

 

Good review at rc.com

 

If it's good, I might replace my reverso with one of these when it wears out.

One of the relevant factoids I recall from the RC.com thread was that, whereas the ATC-XP was designed to have 3x the friction of the ATC, the ATC-Guide was designed to have 2x the friction of the ATC.
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I got one from R.S. @ BD about three weeks ago. So far I have used 8.0mm half ropes which work well in autoblock mode. 9.2mm and 9.4mm single ropes cragging, and I just used a 10.2mm cord in it as well. I have not tried my 7.6mm twins in it yet, but I am guessing they will work just fine like the 8.0mm. It is the best at handling a wide range of diameters out of any of the devices I have used to date. It offers alot more friction than the Reverso when it's not used in autoblock mode (belayer below the climber). You can use a small wire to slip through the relese tab hole and clip the wire with a biner. The new 6mm Mammut slings that will be out in about a month would work well too like other folks have pointed out. I found the small nut trick to work fine. I have not personally tried the girth hitched method. It is close to the same weight as the ATC XP. There was another similar device by Simond at the show that had a device built into it for lowering folks off in autoblock mode, but it was a bit clunky and always there for the seldomly used lowering mode. Sorry I can't remember the name of that device off the top of my head right now.

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There was another similar device by Simond at the show that had a device built into it for lowering folks off in autoblock mode, but it was a bit clunky and always there for the seldomly used lowering mode. Sorry I can't remember the name of that device off the top of my head right now.

 

This device from Simond is called the Toucan ref#10026

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