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      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   11/10/22

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ScottP

Dana's Arch to the top TR

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if that was the case you shouldn't resopond to him, it only feeds the fire.

caveman you rule!!!! and rock scottie's world

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quote:

Originally posted by erik:
if that was the case you shouldn't resopond to him, it only feeds the fire.

caveman you rule!!!! and rock scottie's world

The most needy are the ones who should get the attention.

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W – Why no answers, but lots of questions for me? Basically I think that in most cases the answers to your questions all are contingencies. In essence I think that there is a point that hard nailing becomes a fun form of rock destruction. Should they stop? I don’t know but I have thought about that question before. Those nailing should consider their actions before criticizing others. With regard to Dana’s Arch, I haven’t climbed it for a couple years but thinking back in my opinion had the nailing ceased after the bolting the route would have been less aesthetically compromised than in its current condition unbolted. Generally for me climbing/looking at pin scars is almost always less pleasing than the natural rock so I would have to say that a few bolts near a seam would be generally preferable to scars. Months ago here I suggested that maybe routes should be left as top ropes! So maybe one of the factors I would consider would be “top ropability”. As far as “Mad Bolters” go, Dana’s Arch was bolted a long time ago I doubt the current outlook of climbing had any impact on the decision to bolt it.

Here are a couple of more scenarios for you. Suppose we went to Dan’s Arch (It hasn’t been freed in this scenario) and were going to climb the initial section using clean tech when possibly but with certainty that hammered pins would be needed. Me being a coward stayed on the ground and belayed you as you began to climb. You went up a move or two and declared, “Peter I just know that if that super hot shit climber we saw in Vegas were here he would free this mutha using just “clean” gear.” Now would you come down and leave? What if you could only imagine it being free? What if your usual partner could free it? By the way lots of damage can be caused by cam hooks! Use them judiciously.

Error confession: It may not have been the first three but rather first two 5.10s.

If I remember Scott some of the bolts in question were in fact bad. (ie defective bolts)If I may ask exactly what reaction do you get from the bolt ladder on City Park.

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quote:

Originally posted by Peter Puget:
If I remember Scott some of the bolts in question were in fact bad. (ie defective bolts)

Defective bolts? Who told you that, Fred?

quote:

If I may ask exactly what reaction do you get from the bolt ladder on City Park.

Peter, it's an inanimate object. It can't react.No matter. Are you talking the original, the botched upgrade, or the current incarnation?

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Actually you are close but actually incorrect with your "reaction" correction.

The whole TC thread was in fact started because a mysterious hero was warning of defective bolts. In your replies you condemed both the original replacement and defective replacement.That thread was my awakening to the amazing world of online BS.

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quote:

Originally posted by Peter Puget:
Actually you are close but actually incorrect with your "reaction" correction.

The whole TC thread was in fact started because a mysterious hero was warning of defective bolts. In your replies you condemed both the original replacement and defective replacement.That thread was my awakening to the amazing world of online BS.

He isn't all that mysterious. Anyway, I remember the defectives being in the first replacement, and then he replaced those with "good" bolts.

What is a "reaction" correction?

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quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:
Botched upgrade eh? Now how is that for being a jerky? Kill Kill Kill
mad.gif" border="0mad.gif" border="0

Was that you that fucked up the original City Park bolt ladder? Shame on you Lucy.

quote:

Scott is a chub
[chubit]

I'm a fish?

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quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:
Botched upgrade eh? Now how is that for being a jerky? Kill Kill Kill
mad.gif" border="0mad.gif" border="0

Was that you that fucked up the original City Park bolt ladder? Shame on you Lucy.

quote:

Scott is a chub
[chubit]

I'm a fish?

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No Lucy, see, there was an attempt to upgrade the original City Park bolt ladder... probably before you began climbing. They slammed in some 1/4 inchers and basically made a mess of things.

The bolts that are in there now aren't the ones I am referring to as botched. Those are the "third incarnation".

So, now you don't have to knock me in the head, unless you still want to.

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Caveman hits ScottPeePee in the melon with club.

Scott I was referring to the TC fiasco you created. I climbed city park before and thought the bolts were fine. Why do you ask if you already know Beyatch rolleyes.gif" border="0[Moon]

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