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My housemate went out there on Sunday and they didn't find much dry rock. All those cracks and the forest above have absorbed a lot of water over the last few weeks, so I wager it will take more than a couple/few days of dry semi-sunny weather to yield much climbable rock.

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its hard to actually talk about routes that usually will be dry because the rock tends to dry in sections, with the lower pitches retaining their seepage for longer than the top pitches. p2 and 3 of davis holland , the top half of p1 of godzilla p2 of city park and slow children,breakfast of champions, p2 of thin fingers, dana's arch, sentry box, p3 heart of the country all dry the quickest. the wall routes on the upper town wall take quite a while to dry because of runoof from the waterfall but are all climable even in a downpour, it just depends on how much you are willing to suffer.

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Well lookee here, I'm whoring around on the internet on uncle's dime.......and I have a sort of fun outside job confused.gif It's all downhill now.

 

Well.........it does face south..........

 

Everything will probably be slightly oozy and weather is due back tomorrow; I'd just come and take your chances.

 

Davis Holland P2 is pretty heaven-like on a sunny day in January though.

 

Enjoy

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.......and I have a sort of fun outside job

 

"fun outside job??" Wait till it's snowing sideways outside and you have to climb towers. smirk.gif

 

Mister Crankin

 

I am but lightly supervised, sir, am widely viewed as being difficult to replace, know almost all the tricks, and am not above a little gold-bricking from time to time. These things are what I have in common with cube rats everywhere. The issues you mention help keep me from going nuts.

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  • 2 weeks later...

You'll be able to find dry rock if you want after a day or so of sun. Most of the place will dry enough to climb by the afternoon. The GNS will be dry. Traverse from the top of GNS to BOC. PA will be wet. Iron Horse will be dry. Jap Gardens will have a couple wet spots at the beginning, but will mostly be dry. The start of Godzilla will be wet, but the route is doable after that section. The top part of the first pitch of thin fingers will be a little wet. Just aid through it to save your ankles. Most of the sport climbs in the Country will be dry. The slab pitch on GM will, as always, be wet. Basically, if you want to climb, you'll be able to find dry rock.

Edited by TimL
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Bruce -

 

Doesn't Wilman's go for three pitches to the top of the wall? Years ago my friends and I thought Wilman's was the face crack with the obvious slings at a hanging belay. So when we started climbing to the right we thought we were putting up a new (albiet obvious) route up a left facing corner system until we found slings around a bush 30' (bush now gone) feet up and some more slings at about the 75' level atop a killer .11a corner. From then on out(2 pitches)we saw no evidence of anyone being on the route before, however, we concluded that we were really climbing Wilman's. Any ideas?

 

In any case the face crack (called the Incision for several guides) has a free section at the bottom that is becoming very mossy - not so fun unless dry and what we ended up calling Wilman's would have a few wet sections as well.

 

Confused.

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Wilman's is three pitches long...to the top of the feature to the right of the main wall, whatever that is nowadays called. It starts with a face crack in a prominent dihedral not too far left of the cave that commences the ledge system above the zipper.

 

We, uh, nailed the vast bulk of it & so it was just a dandy January undertaking.

 

This is the dihedral at the top of P1 in winter 1971. I suspect it's the corner to which you refer.

5164Wilmans_P1.jpg

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