fredrogers Posted September 27, 2001 Share Posted September 27, 2001 Headed up to do the Mole this weekend and am looking to even out the climb to hike ratio a little. Can anyone offer any beta to help Beckey's descriptions for routes on the Duolith? Much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted September 27, 2001 Share Posted September 27, 2001 Does anyone know if a 50 meter rope will be OK for getting off the the above mentioned climbs? Why pack the weight of a 60 meter rope if you don't have to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrogers Posted September 28, 2001 Author Share Posted September 28, 2001 quote: Originally posted by TimL: Does anyone know if a 50 meter rope will be OK for getting off the the above mentioned climbs? Why pack the weight of a 60 meter rope if you don't have to? Yeah- if we don't have to take the 60 meter we can bring a six pack. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted September 28, 2001 Share Posted September 28, 2001 Yep, just hide it in Mr. Calves backpack. [This message has been edited by TimL (edited 09-28-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 28, 2001 Share Posted September 28, 2001 Gosh guys if I were going along we would definitely have the 6 pack rollin' ! I cannot survive without it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrogers Posted September 28, 2001 Author Share Posted September 28, 2001 Quick. Get me a beer. I'm already alco-glycemic... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viktor Posted September 28, 2001 Share Posted September 28, 2001 The Duolith has a one-pitch crack on the south side around 5.10, I think. Orange colored rock and obvious. The first rap off the Mole will reach a slopey gravelly ledge with a 50, I think. You'll have to funk your way down to the next station. Not hard but scary. I'd pack the 60 if I were you. 3 rappels. Or bring a 3rd person, 2 ropes, and you rap off in 2. Good luck with water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle_Flick Posted September 28, 2001 Share Posted September 28, 2001 Last year we climbed the Duolith on the west side next to the start of the south face route of the Mole and found it to be 4th class. We topped out on the north summit (the s. summit climbs an unprotectable arete with questionable means of descent) and did two raps down to the Hook Creek side with a 50m rope. The anchors are good. Enjoy the ambiance of the Mesa, but you'll have to hike down to Mesa Lake for water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrogers Posted October 1, 2001 Author Share Posted October 1, 2001 Kyle and Viktor- Thanks for the beta. After some route finding problems on the way in via Snow Creek we made it up to Mesa Lake (when Nelson says "at the first switch back where the trail leaves Snow Creek" I'd have to add- "At the first switchback where the trail leaves the Creek for good, after a short steep hill". And stay WAY left of the talus field.). Absolutely beautiful area, but the approach is a bitch. One of the worst I've ever done (including the Pickets)... if you go, go for at least 3-4 days and spend some time up there. I wouldn't recommend it for a weekend trip unless you need to punish yourself for some reason. The S. Face of the Mole was straightforward and a nice airy summit, but the hike to climb ratio was way fricken off. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 1, 2001 Share Posted October 1, 2001 Bummer dude, I think I sent you guys some info (not detailed but my experience) on bushwhack and hard to find trails? Me being well versed in the bushwhack I may tend to think it can be more difficult than I say. Still I did not understand where you may have ascended to Mesa Lake clearly. Did you enter via Temple Canyon or Toketie Lake? I am lost. Of course I never personally thought any of the hikes into the Rat Creek group were going to be a pushover. I thought that it was obvious if I went in there myself that nailing more than one of those things would be in order due to the long walk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle_Flick Posted October 1, 2001 Share Posted October 1, 2001 Sorry to read about your travails regarding the approach. I agree the Toketie approach and descent is gruesome. We came up Hook Creek with light packs carrying bivy gear, and while quite a hump it was direct and only took less than half a day. Was there any water to be found on the Plateau? At least you got a climb in for all your trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 1, 2001 Share Posted October 1, 2001 Also keep in mind when ascending some of those areas that have been hit by fire recently. There could be more trees down and thus will slow you considerably. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted October 1, 2001 Share Posted October 1, 2001 What stands out the most about the Mole is the approach, descent and the beauty of the area. The Mole as a climb is very easy and uneventful. Although after looking up at it from the Icicle for so long it is nice to have finally climbed it. As Fred Rogers mentioned, it would be better to spend some time in the Enchantments and knock the Mole off as part of a trip then just a weekend jaunt. I would recommend coming over Prusik Pass. On another topic. Has anyone done the Temple Range traverse? I know you can start on the W. Ridge of Prusik but were would the actual traverse end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrogers Posted October 1, 2001 Author Share Posted October 1, 2001 We came in via Tokitie, damn it all. I know that a grade IV approach can be a bitch, but that was particularily ugly. Kyle- we did find a little water (stagnant or close to it) on the plateau, but camped at Mesa at your recommendation. Had the place to ourselves. Glad I didn't pack the six pack , but I was happy to have left one in the car in a cooler... glug glug. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbb Posted October 2, 2001 Share Posted October 2, 2001 A year or two ago I tried to get to the Mole from the Colchuck lake TH (Described in Beckey I think). It was really easy going until we hit the rat creek valley. We descended and were unsucessful in trying to cross the farthest East fork of the creek/waterfall. However, it looked like you could do a high traverse near the dragon's teeth and have a relatively brush free route onto the mesa. One other catch is that the area around the colchuck TH burned, so you might encounter more fallen trees and what not. Otherwise it's open medow/rocky and straitforeward travel. I'm not saying I'd recomend this approach (because we got spanked in rat creek), but it might be worth another look... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 2, 2001 Share Posted October 2, 2001 TimL I did some of the Traverse earlier this year. I have some details if you want them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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