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alexbaker

Good Aid Routes Rocky Butte

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There may be some good ones towards the grotto end of the cliff. They may be buried by developement though. Been a couple decades since I ve been there. Bob McGown did a book that will show where they are. Holy Bubble area would be good too

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the bible college dome - woody, surprisngly low angle but super treacherous - bring lots of pound-in pro - crampons might help too - if any 'thumpers ask, tell 'em your cruis'n'fer'christ!

 

this route has the added benefit of being out of the woods and mostly bereft of half-used rubbers...

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What is the BCD rated? For free the first move is definitely the crux. Running start brings the rating down, im sure. However, I have not climbed it and i think it would be near impossible to free. And as ivan says, pound in pro or even screw in pro would be best. Tell me, will ice screws work if i want to aid the first moves of BCD?

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I did a thin line that took some thin nailing as well as clean trickery on the Mean Street Wall. It was between Seamingly Endless and Holy Bubbles. It topped out on the railing below the chainlink fence. Over to the right of Birds of Paradise is a faint trail that hugs the cliff, as it drops down there is an old line of bolts in a water streak....just a bit past this where the trail levels out a bit there is a line of old 1/4" studs which follow a seam under a roof. There are two bolts out on a face at this point. I placed a head in the seam left of the bolts and put in two small holes for 1/4" RB's. This will bring you around the roof and follow the crack system to the top. You use a few pins after the roof and then it's all clean gear and a few hook moves. The trees at the top you think could be anchors....Are ROTTEN! Two of them tore out on me when I grabbed them. There is also poison oak mixed in with the fun exit. The house at the top had a convienient fence post which I used for the anchor due to no solid trees. It was a stealth exit to the road from there. I wouldn't reccomend the same exit. An anchor would be better on this one. I believe this area is called the Wall of Shadows. There is a chimney looking thing to the right of the climb just mentioned which has a really cool looking arching crack at the top of the crag which I have not attempted, but just left is a line that you will notice a newer looking bolt on. That thing was a combined effort of a few people who tried it. It still hasn't gone all the way. The dihedral above the bolt is WAY thin. It takes beaks rurps and #0,#1 heads. After the crack ends you get to hook for four or five moves in a row to the right. You will see two rivits here. That is as far as it's gone. One fall was taken on the diheadral which sent (C W) for a 40' whipper down to where that first bolt is. A #2 HB off set in the bottom of the diheadral caught him! It was a great show!

 

Have fun! Wear your helmet!

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