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Anybody give up on the ice season yet?


Jens

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82bush.jpg

This one doesn't look summer to me, either, but the South Face of Mount Cook looked all icy and rimy when I climbed it, so I said hmmm.... "maybe." I don't know where Mt. Brown is, or whether it may be a relatively high mountain.

 

 

small_Gardiner_Hut_052.jpg

The first is a picture of White Dream, which has approximately ten pitches of WI III or maybe IV on it, followed by about a thousand feet of lower angle alpine ice. (I think is rated AI V or something like that). I'm pretty sure it is customarily done in the summer. Here's another shot:

small_Gardiner_Hut_044.jpg

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Jens, I've done like 20 days this season and it's just getting rolling with longer days and more friendly temperatures. Sure, a full half of those were in the Rockies...but who's counting? Ah the joys of being a student and only living 7.5 hours from Banff

 

My snugtop.gif may give up before the season ends though.

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ah, nothing too exciting thus far...plus the other TRs pretty much sum up how awesome the area is.

 

In my last 2 trips up there, we did: Cascade, Grotto (both trips), Hers, Cobra Verde (disappointing), Finishing Hammer Gully (fun rambling solo), Louise Falls (fun pillar, but easy for the grade), Haffner, Guiness Gully, and some other easy stuff. I'll post some pics or something when I get my homework done.

 

I need a partner who leads WI5 to help me break into that grade. Anyone want to ropegun me up Nemesis, Sea of Vapors, or the Upper Weeping Wall?

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Hi all,

 

If your coming down to NZ then check out

www.verticalresources.org

 

designed as an info and conditions site - still trying to get it more widely used.

 

As for the first set of images - On was taken in early summer / late spring on White Dreams - south face of Mt cook. Access is via a min 1 1/2 day approach. Either bivvy at the base of the route or get up quite early and ascend aprox 1000m from Gardiner Hut (in the hooker valley / hooker glacier). The route tops out near the top of the west ridge which leads onto low peak (cook has 3 summits low - middle and high)

 

The second shot was taken 2 winter seasons ago 0n some of thelower ice routes in Bush Stream. You can download a copy of the guide from the VR website.

 

In general we had a pretty poor winter and with a moderate lack of snow in early spring it's making conditions crevasse and shrund wise quite interesting.

 

The 'standard' route up cook via the linda glacier is still in climbable condition - there was a SAR just below the summit rocks yesterday - a visting climber fell at the top shrund and injured - not many details as yet but will be following up.

 

There are also some interesting articles on equipment etc in the downloads documents section.

 

The VR site is actually open to anybody around the globe to put info on - doesn't need to simply be NZ wink.gif

 

Feedback gratefully appreciated.

 

Stay safe.

 

Mal Haskins

www.verticalresources.org

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