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32 or 38? you decide


thestidham

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Also, the cliffs on the north side of I-90 at X38 (Far side - Eastern Block, Headlight Point, Gritscone, etc.) are known for some of the softest grades around (printed grades at least 2-3 grades higher than any other local areas). The older cliffs, on the south side of the highway (Nevermind, Mt Washington areas, etc.) have grades more in line with other local sport areas, like X32.

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The only choss at Exit 38 is the Deception area which features cliff faces blasted out for a railroad cut. Since it is the closest climbing area and one that most newcomers see, it is resposible for the choss reputation.

yelrotflmao.gifyelrotflmao.gifyelrotflmao.gifrolleyes.gif

I'm not kidding. Choss means loose, manky rock. I wasn't talking about quality, which is another issue entirely. By and large the rock at Exit 38 is solid, with the except of the road cut.
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  • 1 year later...

IMO!! Both places are fun and have good routes. I think Exit 32 has a little longer approach, but then if your choosing to go interstate park area at exit 38 its about the same. Deception crags(exit 38), from your car to the wall is like 5 minutes.

 

Watch for loose rock at interstate park though. I had a soccer ball size rock, break free while I was setting up a top rope. It looked solid, and I was just pushing against it to re position my feet, when snap, it flaked off. Luckily it missed my partner below.(Would have been a killer) I wasn't so fortunate though. When the rock flaked off it caused me to lunge forward, slamming my face into the wall. There's nothing like finishing up the top rope, while dripping massive blood everywhere. I literally saw stars, and damn near broke my nose. It took me a half hour or better to finish setting the TR up. All I wanted to do was get down, so I went hella slow not to rush myself and fuck up. It was an experience, it'll get ya jacked up thats for sure.

 

Im just glad I was anchored when all this happened. Also glad to have learned from my mistake without paying with my partners life or mine. I should have checked the hold more thouroughly before putting any weight on it, even though I wasn't weighting it, just pushing against it.

 

I definitely would wear a helmet there!!!

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The route Displacement is aptly named (Interstate Park). Climbers routinely displace rocks from it. Be careful where you set your belay.

IMO!! Both places are fun and have good routes. I think Exit 32 has a little longer approach, but then if your choosing to go interstate park area at exit 38 its about the same. Deception crags(exit 38), from your car to the wall is like 5 minutes.

 

Watch for loose rock at interstate park though. I had a soccer ball size rock, break free while I was setting up a top rope. It looked solid, and I was just pushing against it to re position my feet, when snap, it flaked off. Luckily it missed my partner below.(Would have been a killer) I wasn't so fortunate though. When the rock flaked off it caused me to lunge forward, slamming my face into the wall. There's nothing like finishing up the top rope, while dripping massive blood everywhere. I literally saw stars, and damn near broke my nose. It took me a half hour or better to finish setting the TR up. All I wanted to do was get down, so I went hella slow not to rush myself and fuck up. It was an experience, it'll get ya jacked up thats for sure.

 

Im just glad I was anchored when all this happened. Also glad to have learned from my mistake without paying with my partners life or mine. I should have checked the hold more thouroughly before putting any weight on it, even though I wasn't weighting it, just pushing against it.

 

I definitely would wear a helmet there!!!

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  • 2 weeks later...

32 has WWI and it kicks ass. exit 38 is a good place for beginers and large groups. Also, if you want to escape 38 has lots of little crags that you can hike to to get some peace. But, 32 has more hard routesa in one location, but usally is more crowded.

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Sean -

 

from my experience at both crags, jibby pretty much covered it. World wall at 32 is steep, overhanging, and stout, and primarily .11hard - .13. Lots of link-ups/extensions and it seems to only get harder the higher you go. 38 has numerous walls and mini-crags and plenty to climb in the .8 - .10easy range and is thus a nice destination for introducing people to climbing outdoors. There are also some great 10s and 11s, so it's also ideal for when you have a mixed group of abilities.

 

In closing, 32 all the way you ninny! :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

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