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Litchenburg Mountain Partners


Weekend_Climberz

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Well the forcast looks pretty bitchin' and my buddy of course is spending the week in Whistler (bastard!!) through next week.

 

Anyone want to head up to Litchenburg and see what the new snow ski's like on Saturday or Sunday?? Avy conditions permitting of course. Just thinking about a day trip right now, unless you can change my mind.

 

Shoot me a PM or something.

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How do you get from the Lichtenwasser to the summit safely in avalanche conditions? The way I've gone up from there certainly feels more secure than the west and south faces, but not totally safe. It is a scenic approach to the peak, though, and generally moderate in angle but there is about two hundred feet up the side of the ridge directly below the lake where I usually take the skis off and crawl because it is too steep to skin up in most snow conditions.

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There's a safe way up off the Smith Brook Road but it needs enough snow to fill in the trees. I would be stoked to check out another route depending on avi conditions. Saturday would be best 'cause that's when the big game is.

 

I would imagine snow cover in the trees is good now. I was over in Teanaway country yesterday and shit is well covered starting at like 2500 feet on that side.

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You go up the SB road almost to the big turn under the rocky slope. You then have to find a way across the creek and head up to the lake. Then head for the top along the right hand side of the lake and then up the slope to your right. You hit the ridge and it's a safe cruse to the top. We never made it, the snow was waist deep in places. We watched some natural slides on the other side of the lake.

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In periods of high avalanche danger, I don't think you'll safely make it all the way to the summit by that route but perhaps nearly so.

 

I'd recommend heading into the woods after heading straight ahead at the big hairpin and then bearing left, to climb up to the Lake. Form there, staying right may keep you somewhat out of avalanche terrain but I remember there being a few terrain rolls that may be worriesome -- and then when you get to the summit itself you will either have to doggie crawl up an exposed and steep snowclimb on the right or cross beneath and climb over a large cornice on the left.

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Well it turns out that W_C is gonna be a lazy moon.gif this weekend and ride the lifts the_finger.gif

 

I'm still not quite sure yet. It's early in the week I suppose and my buddies sound like they may be flaking out to watch the playoffs. I'm also thinking that renting boots is about as much as a lift ticket anyway (actually less), so maybe it's going to be a B/C kind of weekend for me. wazzup.gif

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so maybe it's going to be a B/C kind of weekend for me. wazzup.gif

 

Cool. Sunday perhaps??

 

Got one other friend who's sorta tentative but if anything would go Sunday.

 

Another one definitely can go but only on Monday.

 

I'd prefer Sunday though. So lemme know soon if that works for ya, bro...

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In periods of high avalanche danger, I don't think you'll safely make it all the way to the summit by that route but perhaps nearly so.

 

I'd recommend heading into the woods after heading straight ahead at the big hairpin and then bearing left, to climb up to the Lake. Form there, staying right may keep you somewhat out of avalanche terrain but I remember there being a few terrain rolls that may be worriesome -- and then when you get to the summit itself you will either have to doggie crawl up an exposed and steep snowclimb on the right or cross beneath and climb over a large cornice on the left.

lichtenberg.jpg
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Now for the dumb question from the Oregon guy - which side of Lichtenberg are you guys aiming to ski? It was love at first site when I saw the south face for the first time and assumed the fastest way out is Nason Creek. Do you go in and out the Smith Brook Road way if shooting for the south side? Is the skiing good between the summit and the lake (east/southeast?)?

 

Also, I will be up there 1/20-22 so if it is stable and anyone wants to ski it, let me know.

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smithbrook.jpg

 

I think Dave is talking about heading into the woods and across the creek on the first

hairpin turn at about 3800'. Might be able to get a car up to there, but who knows right

now. You'll want to stay north of the Lichtenwasser Lake outlet stream. Once you get

to the lake I imagine you can follow the ridge to the top with fairly limited exposure to avy

danger, depending on those cornices in the picture from ScottP.

 

ScottP: I'm assuming that picture is taken from the knoll to the NE of the summit

(aproximately by the dark cross on the topo).

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I don't think you'll have too much trouble crossing the creek, Dave. It isn't that big.

 

By the way, if you are aiming for the summit via Dave's proposed route up from Lichterwasser, you might want to bring along an ice axe for the doggie crawl finish. The steep climbing is short, but it is exposed.

 

If you reach the main crest off to the left somewhere, you can skin it right to the summit.

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No, you won't need a rope. You won't really need the axe either, but if you do elect to complete the snowclimb finish it will be comforting. I bet the entire crest between the summit and the knob to the southeast will have a cornice or pseudo-cornice on it right now, so the doggie crawl may well turn out to be the way to go. If you don't have an axe, turn your skis over and use the bindings for traction claws.

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