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johnh

what kind of crampons?

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I just up-graded my boots to a new pair of Vasque Super Alpinistas and I also want to get a better pair of crampons (currently using some old salewa 12 points). I will be mostly on cascade mountains and possibly some Mexican volcanoes. Should I get 10 point or 12? Strap-on or clip? Any particular brand?

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it depends on what you will use them for. Definitely don't use aluminum for waterfall ice.. I have a pair of those stubai and they are perfect for moderate glacier use... I like using aluminum cause it keeps me straight- I am not 100% comfortable on terrain where aluminum crampons are NOT suitable (make sense?) The stubai's are kinda a warning system for me.

 

I used to have step in crampons with my plastic boots.. but decided that strap on with a leather boot is much better for MY needs.. it's up to you though..

 

sooner or later though you'll probably have to graduate to steel step in crampons on plastic boots..

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BD Sabertooths could climb anything. They are available in step-in and hybrid designs and are in my opinion the most versatile crampon out there.

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Petzl Charlet makes some particularly nice and light steel crampons. Get whatever binding works best with the boots you like. Strap-ons and new-matics are fine and fit more boots. Horizontal front points will work anywhere.

 

The 10 point petzl steel crampons (with frontpoints) are almost as light as aluminum, and are much more secure on harder ice. I can't understand Plark42's (see above) use of aluminum crampons to limit his climbing. I find that when aluminum crampons start to feel insecure all I need to do to feel secure again is to put on steel crampons. Aluminum crampons are fine on snow and firm neve, but the light steel crampons are much better on hard late-season glaciers and on water ice. The steel is also a lot better on rock.

 

The 12 point crampons are only a bit heavier and will work well just about anywhere.

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