johnh Posted January 3, 2006 Share Posted January 3, 2006 Are aluminum crampons suitable for Cascade mountains? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtn_mouse Posted January 3, 2006 Share Posted January 3, 2006 No, not even suitable for Cascade foothills. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted January 3, 2006 Share Posted January 3, 2006 yo john, I have used aluminum crampons in the Cascade mountains and lived to tell about it. There is nothing special or different about the Cascade mountains that should stop you from using common sense. The route and the conditions of that route will have you going across a lot of exposed rock while wearing your crampons, then aluminum might not be the best choice. But, IMO, not all aluminum crampons are the same regarding durablity. If you just want to get one pair of crampons, then go with a steel pair...they'll last you longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted January 3, 2006 Share Posted January 3, 2006 I've never used them but plenty of people do, and it seems to me they are perfectly suited to MOST Cascade climbs.  They will lose their sharpness faster than harder metal, I havn't seen any designed for waterfall climbing, and as Oly noted I'd be a little hesitant to use them for a lot of mixed climbing, but for traction on an icy glacier or for what we call "alpine ice" here in Washington (generally more like icy névé than actual "ice" as you might find in other ranges) they'll be just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncascademtns Posted January 3, 2006 Share Posted January 3, 2006 There's nothing wrong with Aluminum crampons. They're great for your standard glacier climbs where you don't intend to travel over any amount of rock. Any mixed climbing involved and you'll want to stick with Steel. If you have to choose between the 2 types, Steel would be the way to go but if you can have both, Aluminum would definitly be a good purchase. They will work in the Cascades and they will help light'n the load. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncascademtns Posted January 3, 2006 Share Posted January 3, 2006 Olyclimber, mattp and I responded at the same time. Redundant on the responses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jopa Posted January 3, 2006 Share Posted January 3, 2006 The Stubai Ultralights (scroll down and click) are a good aluminum crampon. The connector that holds the front and back spikes together is made of steel which reduces some of the flex while remaining very light. For basic glacier travel in the Cascades I think they are a great (light!) option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweatinoutliquor Posted January 3, 2006 Share Posted January 3, 2006 Not to mention that there is a chick climbing ice in short shorts on that page. Is that what sold it for you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted January 4, 2006 Share Posted January 4, 2006 If I don't know what I am getting into as far as conditions go, I use my steel crampons. But I have used my aluminum Stubai's on Rainier, N Ridge of Stuart, and several other climbs where I knew that I would be on mostly snow or that I would take them off for long stretches of rock. I love em. Those and my aluminum ice ax go almost everywhere I go solo anymore. I could get by without them but they sure make things more interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenp Posted January 4, 2006 Share Posted January 4, 2006 I've used Stubai's for the past 3 years on easier snow climbs, mostly up the Mountain Loop Hwy area. I have had no issues with them at all, they fit tight enough on heavy hiking boots, the strap is holding up well and I was a bit concerend about the plastic toe/heel piece but that isn't showing much wear at all. They truly are about the dullest things out there though. I too take them off prior to rock scrambling. One advantage is they are fast & easy to put back on. Stubai's = Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Crash Posted January 7, 2006 Share Posted January 7, 2006 What about the Grivel and Camp crampons? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 I just got a pair of Grivel aluminum crampons and they are very light even with anti balling plates on them. I have owned a pair of Stubais for several years. My only complaint about aluminum crampons is the secondary points are always to far back, which makes front pointing difficult. If your crampon is fitted to your boot properly you should not have any problem with them coming off or flexing to much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_A Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 I have the Camp aluminum strap-ons. Very nice. Great for trips where you have short glacier crossings to approach alpine rock climbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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