Andy_Bourne Posted April 23, 2001 Share Posted April 23, 2001 Has anyone done this route? Particularly, I was looking for beta on the long 10c dihedral and the connecting 10c pitch with one bolt that goes from the top of the dihedral to Library ledge. (I am thinking of finishing on the last pitch of Outer Space instead of continuing up the 10d chimney pitch of Hyperspace). The dihedral description in Washington Rock says "10c or 11a depending on how you do it" and it looks like the connecting pitch is run out with a bolt at the crux. Anyone have any additional info on these pitches? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted April 23, 2001 Share Posted April 23, 2001 pretty hard for 10c  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted April 23, 2001 Share Posted April 23, 2001 Andy, The topos that I have are in Kramar's book and they are wrong. There is a single bolt on the right hand wall of the dihedral where you exit onto the Outer Space shield and from there to the gnarled pine belay is runnout but about 5.2. The next pitch which ends on library ledge is not 10c face, does not have a lone bolt on it and is not run out. It follows a beautiful little 5.7 left-facing dihedral with a 2" crack in the back of it that leads directly to the left most end of library ledge. The two bolted pitches above between the last full pitch or Outer Space and Edge of Space are fun too. Mitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy_Bourne Posted April 26, 2001 Author Share Posted April 26, 2001 Wow, thanks alot. That may have saved hours of guessing whether the topo is wrong or I am bumbling off route. On that 10c dihedral. . that is about at the limit of my climbing ability. How possible is it to aid my way through if need be? Is there good pro or is it kind of tricky? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted April 28, 2001 Share Posted April 28, 2001 Hi Andy, I think you could probably aid your way through it without a lot of problems, although I have never really looked at it in this way. What I remember about the crux of the dihedral is that it kind of headwalls and you can't really tell if you should go over it at the right or the left. But the pro is quite reasonable at that point. Go for it. It is a really good route that is not climbed nearly as much as it should be. I'm sure the misinformation in the topos scares a lot of people off. When you feel real hard, try connecting with the first pitch of RPM, Psychopath (excellent!!) and Edge of Space. Mitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted May 26, 2001 Share Posted May 26, 2001 So how about Hyperspace? Is the 10d chimney protectable? I was trying to scope it out from Maryjane dihedral but couldn't see much. I guess I'll go have a looksee but it would be nice to know beforehand. D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted May 26, 2001 Share Posted May 26, 2001 So how about Hyperspace? Is the 10d chimney protectable? I was trying to scope it out from Maryjane dihedral but couldn't see much. I guess I'll go have a looksee but it would be nice to know beforehand. D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted May 26, 2001 Share Posted May 26, 2001 It protects just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted May 22, 2002 Share Posted May 22, 2002 Anybody know whats up with the sk ull rating in Kramars book for the Mary Jane Dihedral? Â Is the route a totally independent line or does it connect up with Orbit towards the end like the Leavenworth Rock guide apparently suggests? Â Thanks for any and all information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted May 22, 2002 Share Posted May 22, 2002 MJ LINKS WITH SOME FACE CLIMBING AFTER THE DIHEDRAL.......THERE ARE NEW BOLTS ON IT TOO....SO THE SKULL RATING IS A MOOT POINT..... Â PLUS WHAT DOES THAT SKULL RATING MEAN ANYWAYZ???? LIKE YOU ARE GONNA DIE!!!!!! Â LATERZ YO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedMonk Posted May 23, 2002 Share Posted May 23, 2002 kramer's a boltaholic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted May 23, 2002 Share Posted May 23, 2002 We're all gonna die... Â but I'd rather puff on the MJD that pass on the MJD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted May 23, 2002 Share Posted May 23, 2002 Puff Puff give. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderman Posted May 29, 2002 Share Posted May 29, 2002 You can french free the 10c if need be. and when the book says that it is 10c or 11a, it is only 10c. The 11a is a optional pitch on #3, in my opinion you should do this optional pitch, and if you cannot do it, than forget about the 10c up higher, because the 10c is harder and more sustained than the one move wonder of an 11a Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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