Leashless? I don't get it...

[meatghost]

OK - major newb here on ice climbing, meaning never climbed ice but am looking forward to alpine ice climbing soon. I have a pair of Rages that I'm dying to take out, when I purchased them leashless tools were just coming onto the market and I was baffled at the time - it seems to me that if you drop your tool, you're screwed - is a 3rd tool required for leashless climbing?

 

I guess I'm looking for an explanation to the advantage of it. Just by the term alone, it seems , well - dumb. I remember something in Mark Twight's book some time back about placing screws or other pro while leaving the tool placed, glove inside the leash and all - is this the same principle?

 

Thx

[Drederek]

it seems to me that if you drop your tool, you're screwed

you are correct - its a chestbeat thing

[Blake]

They make thingys called 'cowtails' so you can keep the tools attached to your harness but not lashed to your wrists. That way, you can't drop them down the mountain, but you can climb 'leashless'.

[chrisr]

This is the first year I've climbed without leashes and I'll never go back. Placing pro is so much easier when you don't have to screw with leashes. It's not a "chestbeat" thing at all. I've climbed a total of probably 20 pitches of ice this year so far and I haven't even come close to dropping them. It's a personal preference that's all. My climbing partner made the switch from Rages to Ergos this year and loves it as well. Just try it, if you don't like it then don't do it.

Edited December 29, 2005 by chrisr

[Dru]

If by "alpine ice" you mean like the North Ridge of Baker then by all means use leashes as you will never really have to switch from rock to ice or swap hands on tools. Leashless climbing is for crag and waterfall ice where you can lower off if you drop a tool.

 

I mean you aren't going to hike in to Mount Stuart wearing rock shoes are you, even though they are better on the actual climb?

[meatghost]

They make thingys called 'cowtails' so you can keep the tools attached to your harness but not lashed to your wrists. That way, you can't drop them down the mountain, but you can climb 'leashless'.

 

That makes sense - and I could see where on water ice and in some mixed climbing it would be a pain to switch tools to clear ice. Anyway, thanks to everyone for the answers.

 

Chris

[Cobra_Commander]

dru I was expecting a little more STFU NOOB out of you what a disgrace

[sill]

It is just better. More freedom, your hands stay warmer, the list goes on. Even twight and co. pretty much climb totally leashless these days, as do most good climbers. No, its not a chest beating thing, it's just another way of doing things.

[DonnV]

An interesting pro-leashless article (at least 3 years old, I think) from the guiding website of Vince Anderson, who just did the new route on the Rupal Face with Steve House.

 

http://www.skywardmountaineering.com/tipsLeashless.html

 

Another version of the above, with a drawing or two, from Climbing mag:

 

http://climbing.com/techtips/ttalpine219/