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[TR] Cdn Rockies- Real Ice 12/22/2005


JoshK

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Climb: Cdn Rockies-Real Ice

 

Date of Climb: 12/22/2005

 

Trip Report:

Spent the past week in the cdn rockies climbing ice rather than fucking around and pretending ice climbing in WA isn't a complete waste of time. From all the time people are spending on here asking if crap is in (and hearing the reply include "thin", "manky", "wet", "not quite in", "falling down" or any number of other similar descriptions) you could instead just suck it up and drive to a location that actually has real ice.

 

And if you are curious here are some words that I would describe the climbing we did with: "in", "fat", "blue", "solid", "thick", "well formed", "great conditions", "short approach".

 

wave.gifwave.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifbigdrink.gifbigdrink.gifyoda.gif

 

Gear Notes:

Ice Climbing Stuff

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Shit, we're so stupid! Why are we just pretending to ice climb when its so clear that we just need to move out of the state! Doh! I can't believe I didn't know this! Thanks Josh, for letting me know that better ice existed elsewhere. Phew. What a relief. You mean all this time we never had the world class ice? What about Rainbow Right? hmmm!?

 

So you got to move away. Good times. Shut yer' piehole!

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Awesome TR, Josh! No pics, no beta, no great stories, but an abundance of gloating and arrogance. One of the finest TR's I've read this year. Thanks so much for posting. We miss you!

fuck you wanker. talking about arrogance- josh is 100% right. what beta do you need? how about opening a guidebook. and the fact of the matter is that even shittiest season in the rockies is 10 fold better then the best season in washington.

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What is it with people being snobs about climbing?

 

My area is better than yours

 

Rocky Butte? Nasty! I would never climb there

 

Snoqualmie pass?!?!? More like Lowquality pass

 

Why waste my time with some ice in the gorge? It's not Banff so why bother?

 

What ever happened to just being stoked about getting the chance to go climbing? Hell... how about just being outside?!?!? Is everyone turning into a snob that is "too good" to climb something because it isn't up to their "standards".

 

I don't know about the rest of you but just getting the chance to go play outside is what I live for... yeah the gorge will never be colorado but who cares? It is a whole lot better sitting at home watching reality TV or spraying on the internet. wave.gif

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From all the time people are spending on here asking if crap is in (and hearing the reply include "thin", "manky", "wet", "not quite in", "falling down" or any number of other similar descriptions) you could instead just suck it up and drive to a location that actually has real ice.

 

LAFF! I just got back a couple weeks ago from a week over Thanksgiving in the Canadian Rockies and the weather had been really warm and geeeeee everyone on LTV was asking for weeks and weeks if crap is in (and hearing the reply include "thin", "manky", "wet", "not quite in", "falling down" or any number of other similar descriptions)

 

Sound familiar? The Rockies are just another ice climbing area, sometimes it is much colder there.

 

rolleyes.gifrolleyes.gifrolleyes.gifrolleyes.gifrolleyes.gifrolleyes.gifrolleyes.gif

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Sound familiar? The Rockies are just another ice climbing area, sometimes it is much colder there.

 

rolleyes.gifrolleyes.gifrolleyes.gifrolleyes.gifrolleyes.gifrolleyes.gifrolleyes.gif

 

And this is coming from a "guidbook author"? Dude, be realistic. The Canadian Rockies *ARE* ice climbing. Thanksgiving? Yeah, that is early season, but look at it now. It is incredible, just like it is 9 out of every 10 years, rather than the 1 out of 10 years it is good here. Hey, I live here and love WA, but it sure isn't an ice climbing venue to write home about!

 

Man, it is easy to piss you guys off, but thanks for making my troll worth it! wave.gif

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The Canadian Rockies *ARE* ice climbing....Thanksgiving? Yeah, that is early season... Hey, I live here and love WA, but it sure isn't an ice climbing venue to write home about!

 

You dont get out much do you? Too bad.

 

And the "guidebook author"...not really sure what thats supposed to mean? Have I been skooled? Please advise.

 

yellowsleep.gif

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Man, it is easy to piss you guys off, but thanks for making my troll worth it! wave.gif

 

No one as far as I can tell is pissed off... I'd believe the troll except this is your third or so "Colorado is ______" thread... kinda hard to believe it is troll when every other week you have another CO/WA comparison.

 

As long as you are staying stoked to get out regardless of where you are more power to you! wave.gif

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John, where did I mention "Colorado" once in this thread? Last time I checked the Canadian rockies are IN CANADA. Please explain to me the relation I am missing. The Rockies extend into Mexico as well, so does this qualify as a "Mexico is ____" thread as well?

 

 

Alex, I don't get out much? Please qualify your statement. Are you honestly going to tell me that ice climbing in the canadian roclies and ice climbing here are even in the same ballpark? Yeah, sure, I'd be more than happy to climb ice in WA when I can, but it just doesn't happen much, and it just ain't that great when it does.

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I assumed you were talking about the CO rockies as you have recently complained about CO skiing and CO alpine climbing. My apologies for the assumption but I think this demostrates why I feel you make a lot of CO/WA comparisons... hence my assumption.

 

My advice would still be make due with what you have regardless of where you live. If you don't like do something about it beside pissing and moaning about it on a website. wave.gif

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Are you honestly going to tell me that ice climbing in the canadian rockies and ice climbing here are even in the same ballpark?

 

When its in, its in. Yes. I am defending it, sure. If you disagree.. fine? Think of me as just a dood with an opinion about it, like you, not some "guidebook author" (that you spit with apparent disgust). Ultimately who cares? If the Rockies works for you, why don't you just go to the Rockies and be happy climbing, why all the hate like this lame "[TR]"?

 

Did you happen to check out Waynes climb of the sick-o looking Black Dagger thingy in the gorge? It looked absolutely stellar. Not fat, blue, or easy. Real climbing. Id say that the stuff in the Gorge the last two weeks has easily been on par with any of the nice interesting ice I've done in Lillooet or the Rockies.

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alex- i think you didn't climb in the rockies too much, since you are trying to compare wa and alberta.bc. first of all- let's take the season. yeah, there are years like this fall, when you had to be savy in the rockies. 2 weeks every 4 or 5 years around here you can hardly call a season.

second- the quality and quantity of ice.

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You are right, I don't live in Canmore. When I have a week off, sure I choose to go to the Rockies, just like you, just like Josh. Sure I have a great time there!

 

My point is not that Washington or Oregon is somehow this magical mecca of ice climbing. I agree with you and Josh that its not. My point is that it is not tropical enough here to sit around at home, hating it on the Internet, when you could still get decent climbing on the weekend without driving 22 hours round trip (which I've done, too). Why is this so hard to grasp?

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its not hard to grasp, i thnik the problem is someone went to the rockies when the once in a 5 year artic out flow hit and every one climbed shit that hasnt been done since last ice age. now they are pissed off, I doubt any one would try and compare the canadian rockies to washington.

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