kadyakerbob Posted December 21, 2005 Share Posted December 21, 2005 i have checked out little tahoma a couple times and i just recently started checking in to the north and northeast face. my question is have either of these seen a second ascent? i read that one of them has only been climbed once back in the fifties or sixties. Either way in a couple of weeks i am going to go up and check it out, somthings gonna go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted December 22, 2005 Share Posted December 22, 2005 In summer, there's no doubt the North Face is a death route. In winter, it might go. Any info/topo etc on the North Face would be useless due to the amount of falling rock. 1700' of shitty rock. mmmm... I think the NE face gets climbed every now and then. It's more difficult than the regular route (East face) but waaayy easier than the North. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kadyakerbob Posted December 22, 2005 Author Share Posted December 22, 2005 yeah i am definetely going for a frozen ascent, hoping for all ice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted December 23, 2005 Share Posted December 23, 2005 I really doubt that you will find the North face in ice climbing condition. There's no way for a large amount of ice to get there. I would expect frozen cracks and loose rock even when frozen. Bring a rack that includes pitons and a huge pair of testicles. And tell us how it was Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kadyakerbob Posted December 27, 2005 Author Share Posted December 27, 2005 i have heard that thin ice forms, and i got the testicles so should b ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treknclime Posted December 27, 2005 Share Posted December 27, 2005 Yes, the N face proper was climbed at least a second time by George Dunn and Eric Simonson, circa 1976ish. I would imagine the NE face has seen a number of ascents. The W Ridge (Grade VI-V, 5.8ish), was climbed in winter by Paul Cook (RIP) & team in the '80s. Lots of ups and downs. Yoder's also did a new route up one of those W face gullies some years ago as well. The Dunn & Simonson's climb, if I remember right, experienced hard snow, rock scrambling/climbing, and some of it was very exposed and run out. Think they used pickets for pro. I think Van Steen's Rainier guide book shows a photo of their climb. I would think the route to be in shape after a good amount of snow...later season...after there's been a chance for the snow to harden up...and during a cold spell to minimize rockfall danger. If you go, be sure to post a TR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdietsch Posted December 27, 2005 Share Posted December 27, 2005 Paul Cook (RIP) I knew Paul when he worked at Sven's Mountain Sports in Yakima ... when/where and how did he pass away? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.