layton Posted November 5, 2002 Share Posted November 5, 2002 Nice job guys! The 2nd hand beta I recieved was that it was guided 2 summers ago and was easy and short. Guess you can't believe everything you hear! That route looks awesome! Did you camp or go car to car...how long does it take to reach the route from the car?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted November 5, 2002 Share Posted November 5, 2002 The route was really, really good, it is among the best I have done. I think it was especially fun after those fellows told us 'its not in shape'. That became a running joke for us. 'As the NW Ice Couloir was not in shape, were were forced to retreat up the route and down the east ridge.' Michael, It took us 5 1/2 hours to reach camp at the base of the East Ridge. From camp we reached the route in a little under 2 hours. The route took about 7 1/2 hours, the decent 1/2 hour. Hiking out took another 6 1/2 hours as we got lost in the talus in the dark (I ended up taking a cartwheeling fall) and Paco's headlamp died. To add injury to insult, I slipped and landed on devil's club just a few minutes away from the car. I still have slivers in my hand. To do it car to car in a day would be quite an accomplishment on the order of Colin. I suppose it is all relative. Some people said the route was not in. I found it challenging. No doubt others would find it quite easy. [ 11-05-2002, 11:52 AM: Message edited by: danielpatricksmith ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeadam Posted November 5, 2002 Share Posted November 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by danielpatricksmith: Hiking out took another 6 1/2 hours as we got lost in the talus in the dark (I ended up taking a cartwheeling fall) and Paco's headlamp died. To add injury to insult, I slipped and landed on devil's club just a few minutes away from the car. I still have slivers in my hand. Dang Dan! You should take up golf one of these days! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted November 5, 2002 Share Posted November 5, 2002 Kind of reminds me of the Monty Python sketch that shows a man struggling up a rock face, gasping for breath and pounding pins into cracks. The camera pans back and shows John Clease crawling on a sidewalk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted November 5, 2002 Share Posted November 5, 2002 Way to go Dan, Paco! Reeeally nice pictures.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Parker Posted November 5, 2002 Share Posted November 5, 2002 How do you get to the Gallery? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted November 5, 2002 Share Posted November 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by danielpatricksmith: Hiking out took another 6 1/2 hours as we got lost in the talus in the dark yikes; not fun at all. nice job on the climb, though - glad you enjoyed yourselves! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeclimb9 Posted November 5, 2002 Share Posted November 5, 2002 quote: Originally posted by David Parker: How do you get to the Gallery? http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/cgi-bin/album/album.pl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdietsch Posted November 5, 2002 Share Posted November 5, 2002 Good job guys, well done, great photo's .. got to admit the whole "it's not in shape" thing ... don't get it, looks awesome, glad you guys stuck to your game plan ...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted November 6, 2002 Share Posted November 6, 2002 quote: Originally posted by David Parker: quote:Originally posted by danielpatricksmith: I do find it very funny that we ran into a couple of fellows who flatly said 'the route is not in shape' as if it were an fact as indisputable as the sky being blue. They had not even been there. I wonder how people feel like they can spew beta for routes they have not even seen? Dan, This was the same bullshit that Wayne and I got from TWO parties when we went to do it. Unfortunately it kept us from even attempting it. I hope my post after was helpful in your decision to go. I'm jealous, but good job! Yeah, thats a very discrete way of saying that most people just arn't as burly as you guys I think the reality is that most climbers dream of doing gnarly mixed alpine routes...but only a select few actually put up when the route is right in front of them. Same goes for big walls... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted November 6, 2002 Share Posted November 6, 2002 David, Along with Wayne, Alex and Ade, your beta convinced me to take a look for myself. What I call 'reverse sand bagging' infuriates me. People have a look and decide the route won't go for them but make a blanket statement saying the route's not in to make their decision to back off seem more palatable. Mike, I may just do that. I am headed to Scottsdale, AZ over Thanksgiving. I hear they have a few golf courses there. [ 11-05-2002, 12:29 PM: Message edited by: danielpatricksmith ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 6, 2002 Share Posted November 6, 2002 I like it when people say 45 degree snow is 70 degree ice Its good when you have photos to show how steep it really is like DPS and paco. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek_the_Greek Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 quote: I do find it very funny that we ran into a couple of fellows who flatly said 'the route is not in shape' as if it were an fact as indisputable as the sky being blue. They had not even been there. Whoa - that's my buddy Ned Flanders and his friend you guys met! According to him, he said "my friend said that route's out of shape". Of course he hadn't been there - he wasn't pretending anything! A whole lot of lame dissin' on someone who was just making conversation about route conditions. They climbed the east ridge and had a great time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 The fellows we met were nice and friendly, but that does not change the fact that the first words spoken on the subject were "Its not in shape." Had he said something like, "I hear its real thin" or "my friend had a look and backed off", that would have been a much different statement. Making a statment as strong as 'its not in condition' says more about the climber than the route, something I always keep in mind. I am glad your friends enjoyed the east ridge, it was a fabulous weekend to be in the mountains. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COL._Von_Spanker Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 quote: Originally posted by danielpatricksmith: ....it was a fabulous weekend to be in the mountains. that's funny cause someone told me that the mountains weren't in last weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned_Flanders Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 quote: Originally posted by danielpatricksmith: The fellows we met were nice and friendly, but that does not change the fact that the first words spoken on the subject were "Its not in shape." Had he said something like, "I hear its real thin" or "my friend had a look and backed off", that would have been a much different statement. Making a statment as strong as 'its not in condition' says more about the climber than the route, something I always keep in mind. I am glad your friends enjoyed the east ridge, it was a fabulous weekend to be in the mountains. Hey dan, I didnt even know that my friend posted this before I had a chance to read your report. Great job on the route, and it was a super weekend to be in the mountains. I just wanted to say that I thought i said that "I heard that the route was not in shape" and after i said that, i thought that maybe i shouldnt have said anything and then i continued to say that a friend of a friend went up there and told my other friend that it wasnt in shape. Maybe it wasnt in shape or maybe it was and he didnt like it or maybe it got better with all this cold weather we have been having. I do hate when people tell me that i cant do a certain climb and that wasnt the point i was trying to get across. enjoy, joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 quote: Originally posted by COL. Von Spanker: quote:Originally posted by danielpatricksmith: ....it was a fabulous weekend to be in the mountains. that's funny cause someone told me that the mountains weren't in last weekend. they won't be in *this* weekend either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlander Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 quote: Originally posted by thelawgoddess: quote:Originally posted by COL. Von Spanker: quote:Originally posted by danielpatricksmith: ....it was a fabulous weekend to be in the mountains. that's funny cause someone told me that the mountains weren't in last weekend. they won't be in *this* weekend either.They will be for me. It all about what your willing to put up with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Highlander: They will be for me. It all about what your willing to put up with. wanna hit canary with me this weekend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 quote: that's funny cause someone told me that the mountains weren't in last weekend. You are a funny guy. Makes one wonder if the shooting wasn't random. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlander Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 quote: Originally posted by thelawgoddess: quote:Originally posted by Highlander: They will be for me. It all about what your willing to put up with. wanna hit canary with me this weekend? Only if I get to use you as a crash pad this time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Highlander: quote:Originally posted by thelawgoddess: quote:Originally posted by Highlander: They will be for me. It all about what your willing to put up with. wanna hit canary with me this weekend? Only if I get to use you as a crash pad this time. yeah; i think i owe you a beer for that one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COL._Von_Spanker Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 quote: Originally posted by danielpatricksmith: quote: that's funny cause someone told me that the mountains weren't in last weekend. You are a funny guy. Makes one wonder if the shooting wasn't random. anything for a cheap laugh. Good work on the route. I cant wait to do it sometime, and the approach is so pleasant that it's worth while even if the climb is out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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