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thelawgoddess

coleman headwall / coleman glacier

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quote:

Originally posted by fishstick:

Don't get me wrong, it is worth going. If less experienced, or travelling with less experienced, get onto the glacier via the lower trail (via usual AAI campsite). The normal upper trail offers better bouldering, but the route through the icefall has exposed sections.


thanks! another q: less experienced ice climbing or with glacier travel? also, i've never "bouldered" on ice - is that just like sport climbing, to mean climbing without ropes?

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By less experienced, I mean less experienced climbing ice. There are places in the icefall where a fall on relatively easy terrain could prove to be fatal.

 

By bouldering, I mean soling around on ice without a rope. The Coleman glacier is like a frozen Fontainebleau. It offers more variety, more stability and a better approach than anywhere else I know of (except maybe Ouray).

 

GB

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quote:

Originally posted by fishstick:

The Coleman glacier is like a frozen Fontainebleau.

- Mon dieu!!! Grab the merlot, french bread, pate and cornichons ... and count me in! -

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The only difference between regular bouldering and ice bouldering is that the latter is much harder, not only on the bouldering mat, but on any spotters you kick on the way down [Eek!][big Grin]

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quote:

Originally posted by Dru:

The only difference between regular bouldering and ice bouldering is that the latter is much harder

great. - i can barely pull v1's at the gym without shitting my pants! -

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whatever...the ice climbing on the coleman is as hard as you want it to be. You can traverse, go up short faces, top rope, place screws...anything.

 

I went last october and it was great. But be prepared for the cold and wind, i.e. bring a puffy coat for standing around in.

 

Look out for fresh snow drifts that may hide holes/small crevases.

 

Ice climbing is dangerous, have a blast! [big Grin]

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I'll bring the Camembert and cassoulet up there this weekend for some french technique [smile] any one up for going up there this weekend?

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I haven't done the Coleman headwall, but have done a bit of seracing this year.

 

Overall conditions aren't as good as previous years. It's more broken up with fewer options in the intermediate range of climbing. In previous years there were quite a few options in the 85-90 degree range that offered superb highball boulder problems. This year walls tend to be steeper or suffer from objective hazard due to neighboring instability. A number of difficult top rope problems exist, but running laps on such tends to be tiring not only for the arms, but also for motivation.

 

Don't get me wrong, it is worth going. If less experienced, or travelling with less experienced, get onto the glacier via the lower trail (via usual AAI campsite). The normal upper trail offers better bouldering, but the route through the icefall has exposed sections.

 

In terms of conditions, I can only guess (missed last weekend). Given the colder night time temps beginning this week, expect the ice to become increasingly brittle especially in the morning and in shady areas. If bouldering, it makes sense to climb in the sunny areas high on the icefall for the first few hours of the day. Ice conditions will vary remarkably with solar radiation. Pray for a bit of rain. The moisture pumps heat into the ice and will improve conditions (or maintain them) for another few days.

 

GB

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I was on the lower section of the glacier on Sunday, and conditions were great. There is hardly any new snow, so crevasses and slots are still pretty obvious.

 

I also saw two huge seracs collapse out in the middle of the icefall with zero warning, so its always a good idea to be aware of what's above you.

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quote:

Originally posted by Beck:

I'll bring the Camembert and cassoulet up there this weekend for some french technique
[smile]
any one up for going up there this weekend?

I am also going this weekend. Do you want to join us? We haven't worked out the departure details but there is going to be some Kik'n ice craggin'.

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avenues are leaning in that direction...where all will you be pitching camp? Look for you there, praps. I'm trying to russle up some perpetrators of similar ilk for a weekend of lowgrade icebashing french footwork and frointpointing-anyone else?

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see you guys up there...we will be camping at the foot of the glacier friday night (as we are leaving canada late afternoon). we'll have some KGB form canada if interested in some o' that B.C. goodness... cya up there... [big Drink]

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i'd give ya a ride, but i am comming from the north. we decided to skip the summit and just crag and do crevasse rescue for a newbie buddy instead, so we are bringing some BC Merlot from the Okanogan to go with our green stuff...seey a friday night and saturday and mabe asturday night guys...lawgoddess...are you comming as well?

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i think we are gonna go up past the ice creaggin spot and camp up where the start of the glacier is for the coleman route, unless there is a good camp spot near the craggin' is there good camping to be had there? we could just swing on over there...

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quote:

Originally posted by Fence Sitter:

lawgoddess...are you comming as well?

um, YEAH. i did start this thread, didn't i? [Roll Eyes] look for me and the colonel to have a repeat "epic" ice climbing weekend. [laf] but not the ice climbing itself; just the aftermath of kgb and [big Drink]

 

[Razz]

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my latest season of gainful unemployment just ended today and am sorry to report I will not be bringing the cornichons and grand crus this weekend...DAMN my unemployed climbing stint didn't last nearly long enough, i was hoping to avoid work like I did in the eighties

 

[ 10-31-2002, 12:04 AM: Message edited by: Beck ]

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quote:

Originally posted by Fence Sitter:

see you guys up there...we will be camping at the foot of the glacier friday night (as we are leaving canada late afternoon). we'll have some KGB form canada if interested in some o' that B.C. goodness... cya up there...
[big Drink]

Will y'all be up there saturday night as well? cause the canada KGB is oh so tempting.

[Wazzup]

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yeah we have a long weekend and we are gonna head out sunday morning... c'mon over if ya wanna have a pub club at 5,000. my names scott and i will be in a walrus micro swift my buddy will be in a tarp... [laf] c'mon over...

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Sounds good scott. 5000 foot french pub club. I will certainly bring the wine and french bread, and we to some french bread anchor tests with the frozen leftovers.

 

I'll be in a yellow sierra designs hercules.

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