Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
MovingMountain

Belay jackets?

Recommended Posts

As much as I love that jacket.. I've got the new improved mammut stratus with hood and it is amazing. Either one is great from what i've seen but... the mammut will keep ya toasty for sure. DAS will also. I have nothing neg to say about the mammut stratus now.. had the old one.. was way to cold/thin. Not anymore.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just bought a MontBell synthetic belay jacket with a hood and waterproof breathable outer shell. I am very happy with it. The thing weighs 1.5 pounds and is super warm and well designed. Pro Mountain Sports stocks them in Seattle.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

DAS parka won 1st place in gear review (new issue of Climbing mag). My Cloudveil Enclosure didn't rate high but I got it for a fraction of the DAS price.

It's not bad and there is always better solution.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The enclosure is rated poorly because the shell didn't repel moisture as well, I think they said it was a little too form fitting as well. I own a DAS and an enclosure ( got the enclosure for free). I use the DAS as a belay parka and the enclosure as an around towner. Dirty harry's right try the patagucci outlet in Dillon, I got mine there for $140.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Interesting. I'd agree that it's hard to beat the DAS for a full-on belay jacket, but I've been pretty happy with the Enclosure. Plus the form fit really flatters my figure... fruit.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In addition'

(if I got it right?)

Climbing gear editor claims that Enclosure SHOULD be warmer regarding to amount of filling they put in.

We, owners of the parka, know that body is 200g and sleeves 170g.

Looks like way how Cloudveil made it, didn't give expected performance output. I was just few evening out on -10C and I've never tried DAS before.

My enclosure was $90CAD+Tax, and I couldn't resist to buy it.

I love it

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have DAS for ice climbing - great jacket, but quite large. For alpine I have a Puffball Jacket. Very similar to a DAS but smaller and lighter. Both have a hood which is pretty important.

 

FWIW: I wouldn't trust a gear reviewer to choose toilet paper for me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I about to buy either a Das Parka or a ID Dolimitti belay jacket for ski mountaineering. Any pro/con opinions on either?

 

the ID is a real dark horse - hardly anyone knows about them, cuz Integral don't budget for the publicity/advertising that the "big" companies do. but i've had one for years, and use it lots, with good results. i like the big, loose, forgiving fit, and i think the knit cuffs are absolutely great - simple, clean fitting, and always snug enuf to prevent drafts. the major problem for your use (ski mtneering) is that the patch material on the shoulders, etc is poorly chosen - it's a taslan-type fabric and snow clings to it. i solved that problem on a spring trip a few years ago by cutting all that fabric off the jacket. it's lighter and works better now!

 

i recently shared a DAS parka back and forth with a friend for a day of ice climbing, and i thought it was a really well designed jacket - nice hood, nice pocketing, practical sizing.

 

cheers, don

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i've had the OR Zero jacket for a while now. Haven't really seen it mentioned here... but it is worth considering IMO thumbs_up.gif

 

$170 but you can sometimes find a factory sample in the discount back room

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have been using the ID Dolmitti for about 5 years and I still love it. I have it with the zip off hood, which I especially like--and the hood is really nice (and often the weak link of a jacket). It has held up well with the only issues being where I leaned against my haning stove and burned a hole in the shoulder. It is still the only belay jacket I use and I see no reason to update it--I would recommend it assuming, as with everything else, that it FITS! Too many people settle for gear just because it has great reviews regardless of fit...go figure...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Anyone know of a belay parka warmer than the DAS? The new model doesn't seem to have near the loft of the model from 5 or so years ago.

 

Thanks

-M

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Anyone know of a belay parka warmer than the DAS? The new model doesn't seem to have near the loft of the model from 5 or so years ago.

 

Thanks

-M

 

The WT belay parka is widely considered the warmest. I have a WT Denali jacket which is a belay jacket with hard shell and that sucker is only brought out on sub zero days.

 

pitty.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
GoLite 6 month night parka. WARM!

These looked pretty good except I don't see them being made anymore. Buying used isn't great due to synthetics losing their loft fairly quickly over time.

 

Bronco,

Yeah, I've got a 3-4 yr old WT belay parka that's nice except the hood doesn't fit well over a helmet. So is the new model better?

Also, I'm looking for a -30F kinda thing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

WT Denali is basically a WT belay jacket with double the amount of insulation. Cut/fabric/etc are all the same.

 

Not sure about the hood issue.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

WT denali has the same insulation, but it has a hardshell, not microfiber. Mine is about 8 years old and has a gtx outershell, but they switched over to sympatex in the last few years of production.

 

I've used mine for skiing at -10f and been almost too warm. Too bad the sucker is huge and weighs something like three pounds.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

anyone tried the MEC Magma jacket? looks like a similar piece to the dolomitti, but no reinforcement patches, about 6 oz. heavier, and $205 canadian.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
WT Denali is basically a WT belay jacket with double the amount of insulation. Cut/fabric/etc are all the same.

 

Not sure about the hood issue.

 

Ain't seeing it on the WT website, have you seen them around?

 

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×