frontrangeclimber Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 Anyone know of some good spots/routes to practice sport leading on? Along those lines does anyone have any recommendations about the best methods of learning how to lead on sport? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 exit 32 and 38 in north bend..... Â uuhhh, start on lower grades and build up confidence.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 Buy a set of nuts and a few cams... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 Anyone know of some good spots/routes to practice sport leading on? Along those lines does anyone have any recommendations about the best methods of learning how to lead on sport? Thanks! Â Check out North Bend Rock and they have a great route list (under best routes) with grades where you can start low and work your way up the confidence level. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 Buy a set of nuts and a few cams... Â WTF does this have to with sport leading? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 Buy a set of nuts and a few cams... Â WTF does this have to with sport leading? Â Absolutely nothing, and that's the point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 This is the Rockclimbing Forum, not spray. Give the guy some decent advice or shut up. Â Exit 38 is a good choice. There are fewer easy routes to be found at Exit 32. Go visit www.northbendrock.com. The Gritscone is a crag at the Far Side of exit 38 that is a good place to start sport leading. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 Anyone know of some good spots/routes to practice sport leading on? Along those lines does anyone have any recommendations about the best methods of learning how to lead on sport? Thanks! Â Getting comfortable on sport is all in your head. For most of the bolted lines around here as soon as you've got the 1st or 2nd bolt your out of groudfall (assuming your belayer is attentive) ( haven't been there but have heard Peshastin Pinnacles is a bit sparsely bolted). If your feeling a bit sketched about high first bolts get a stick clip. Beyond that.. don't z-clip (you'll probably do this once), don't backclip (bad form, might be dangerous), and keep your belayer near the base of the route or anchor them in so you dont' extend your fall. Other than that... mileage, exit 38 is good, If we get a warm sunny day the Feathers and Sunshine wall at Vantage are pretty nice and warm. Â That said.... Screw the bolts and come to dark side! Every one should have their own trad rack! Cracks are like good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 Buy a set of nuts and a few cams... Â WTF does this have to with sport leading? Â Absolutely nothing, and that's the point. Â drivel... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 A great place to learn is Marrymoor Park climbing structure. (Just don't learn by example there, you'll see alot of crazy and stupid stuff.) Â Another great place to learn is in the gym. There you will be in the most controlled environment possible, with lots of expierienced climbers around to ask questions to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 i'd scratch marymoor, but excellent suggestion on the gym...pluls, you'll have a pool of potential partners to hook up with! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 Along those lines does anyone have any recommendations about the best methods of learning how to lead on sport? Â 1) Find bolted route. 2) Climb said bolted route, clipping quickdraws into bolts along the way. 3) repeat steps 1 and 2 Â That'll be 50 bucks. Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 he asked where, not how...dumbass... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrythellama Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 Anyone know of some good spots/routes to practice sport leading on? Along those lines does anyone have any recommendations about the best methods of learning how to lead on sport? Thanks!  rude-e  reading comprehension son.....reading comprehension.  go to hell midget office dweller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 i'd scratch marymoor, but excellent suggestion on the gym...pluls, you'll have a pool of potential partners to hook up with! You have to have a lead card before you can lead in the gym. Unless you already have enough experience to pass their test (which isn't much), you'd have to take their leading class. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 That said.... Screw the bolts and come to dark side! Every one should have their own trad rack! Cracks are like good  CBS is feeling testy today, but I think selkirk captured my intent.  since when did rumr give a damn about spraying in the meaningful forums? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kix Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 you'd have to take their leading class. Â Â voila!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 Anyone know of some good spots/routes to practice sport leading on? Along those lines does anyone have any recommendations about the best methods of learning how to lead on sport? Thanks!  rude-e  reading comprehension son.....reading comprehension.  go to hell midget office dweller ahhh fuck off, llama-lovin, goat huggin, tahoe bitch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RocNoggin Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 ROTFLMAO!! you guys fucking crack me up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek_the_Greek Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 If you follow the advice given here (ie take a gym leading class, or just follow the 1-2-3 step advice here, sack up, and go for it) you are likely to turn into one of the much-maligned "gym rat who knows nothing, takes meager skills outside, does dangerous stuff and gets hurt" people. Â That is, if you learn to climb in the gym, you should not assume that you know much about climbing outside. Ok, you can get away with it on simple 2-bolt anchors w/chains and heavily bolted sport routes with no rockfall, but you can also get yourself into trouble. Â So by all means, learn in a gym, have fun, get the basics down, etc. Then try to find someone who knows how to really climb to take you outside and show you the subtleties you won't learn in the gym (rope management, anchors, rappelling, safety issues, etiquette, simple rescue skills, etc.). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frontrangeclimber Posted December 12, 2005 Author Share Posted December 12, 2005 Thanks for all the good advice...and to those who didnt have anything of value to say...thanks for the laughs! Keep it comin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted December 12, 2005 Share Posted December 12, 2005 If you ONLY want to sport climb (A horrible choice IMO) then, as has been said, just get about 10 or 12 cheap quickdraws, and start leading easy routes with many bolts. clip one end of the quickdraw to the bolt, and the other end to the rope. climb higher and repeat. Google "Back clipping" and "Z-Clipping".... avoid them. When you feel good try harder routes. Â Make sure your knots and harness are secure, your belayer and you know what to do and what to say, and what you will do at the top of the route in terms of belaying, rappeling and getting down. Have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 12, 2005 Share Posted December 12, 2005 Along those lines does anyone have any recommendations about the best methods of learning how to lead on sport? Â 1) Find bolted route. 2) Climb said bolted route, clipping quickdraws into bolts along the way. 3) repeat steps 1 and 2 Â That'll be 50 bucks. Thank you! Â I forgot to mention step 2.5 (very important) clip rope into quickdraw after you clip quickdraw into bolt! Â and don't z-clip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted December 12, 2005 Share Posted December 12, 2005 too late dru; you didn't hear the news? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted December 12, 2005 Share Posted December 12, 2005 I highly recommend some low-angle lead with cheese-grating fall potential. Easy (Reader/Bleeder) at Smith (dihedrals) comes to mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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