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Eldorado NW couloir conditions??


kevin

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Joshk, the snow was good after the second talus field. Not good enough for skiing then (but snow is falling now laugh.gif ) The only skiable snow was on the glacier as of yesterday afternoon. That will likely change today. It all really depends on what you are thikning about... Do you regualry ski the talus field in the winter or ??? I'd be happy to offer more info but would speculate that it is shit for now as far as kiing is concerned. Send PM....

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Dont get me wrong here,Bone . I am not accusing the site of anything but inspiring people to do great things. It was a joy to share it with friends. It could however create crowds like what we saw and maybe a situation? I bivied high and got up early to ensure not getting beaned.

 

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Yeah wayne, and you are probably right. I've seen other folks argue that Chris mac's new Supertopos have increased traffic on Yosemite's classic routes.

 

But those kind of statements kind of bother me, because there really is no proof to back it up. You'd havta go out there and question every party on the climb to find out where people had heard about the route, and where they got information on conditions and such. I'm sure many would say Supertopo's or cascadeclimbers. But without knowing for sure, it's just kind of a broad generalization. I'd be willing to bet that most of the climber population near the Cascades doesn't wait until conditions are posted here before going out to a climb, but maybe I'm wrong.

 

Anyway, glad you had fun and didn't get clobbered by falling ice! bigdrink.gif

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I didn't read any accusation into Wayne's post - could just as well be praise for the board, depending on how you look at it. In fact I actually think Pub Club might have as much to do with the timely information dissemination wink.gif as the posts on the board. I'd be willing to bet that most of the 11 people who approached the route Sunday morning got their info through the grapevine, by calling and meeting and exchanging email. You might not want to take that bet though since I know it's true for at least 5 of us cheeburga_ron.gif

 

Crowding isn't that big a deal either - 9 people got up without anything major coming down, and only Zee caught a bit of an ice pellet in his nose or lip. The other two guys who turned around didn't really need to. The three of us were second-to-last and we made it almost all the way down the boulder field before dark, at a fairly mellow pace. And cs (not CJ, heh, oops, nifty stuff this editing feature...) and his partner were last but still made it to their car through the Sibley Creek approach that same night.

 

It's definitely not the same kind of alpine ambience, I'll give you that... But the previous day only two guys had the route to themselves! And they were coming through the boulder field at 10 am (somebody tell me when they started out from the parking lot, heh). And I bet there wasn't a soul up there last week. Too bad it's started snowing, guess it's time to get the skis out, but I wouldn't have minded one more week of high pressure!

 

 

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It seems to me inarguable that just about every weekend there is a group or maybe a couple of groups of cc.com climbers who seem to converge on some climb that was discussed during the week on cc.com. Big Four ice caves, Observation Rock, Coleman Glacier, Eldorado ... whatever. But just as with the climbs featured in Jim Nelson's books or in Fifty Crowded climbs, anybody who doesn't want to visit with the masses can simply climb elsewhere. There was probably nobody on Pyramid Peak or Spider Mountain (two relatively approachable peaks with excellent ice climbs that were probably in good shape last weekend). One could lament the crowds caused by cc.com or they could simply go elsewhere, but there is nothing wrong with somebody wanting to go where other climbers are suggesting they may find a fun route in good shape.

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