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Stupid Alpine Training?


John Frieh

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To train my skills I went climbing in bad weather last winter, knowing it would get really bad by forecast. Had to flee out of that area due to avalanche risks at night in a bad snowstorm. All intended... But I got to know my new GPS very well in that moment. Finally came to a road (Julierpass) in the morning just after dawn for hitchhike. The snowplough-drivers gave me some big questioned looks. Since, I trust in that small device.

My girlfriend suffers throughout winter, actually last night she already started a 4 month suffering, due to my cool room. No heating - no cheating.

I will leave my sleeping bag at home, just to test my down clothing. This can bring me to smashing a window from a snowed in alp-hut, then spending a cold night trying to make a fire in the fireplace. Recently I tested some solar panells in town, in the streets and got some weird looks. Luckily I was wearing sunglasses.

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Hmm, I trained really solid for a month doin Extreme Alpinism foundation period. Like 1-2 of cardio and then hour or 2 in the gym on weights and core stuff.

 

My cardio is weigh up from the summer, my bodyfat went down 5% or more, my pull up number had more than doubled. I need to get back into trainin and stop puffin tough. But I think my 2 weeks of rest did me good in fact. I just train when it sounds fun and don't when it doesn't. I'd rather sit around and puff than train somedays and vice versa others. Who knows what I will be able to climb in the alpine tho. I've finally woken up enough to think about real climbin again!

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I read this interview where Middendorf said that him and Walt Shipley would drop acid and freesolo in the Valley to prepare for being at high altitude, starving, and hallucinating from fatique on Karakoram alpine big walls...

 

I did try that mushsmile.gif and free soloing thing once, once was enough.

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Stupid, but appreciated - I hiked up to Camp Muir on a warm summer afternoon with over 40 pounds of water in my backpack in the form of a bunch of gallon jugs and 2 liter pop bottles, along with my harness, ice ax, and a bunch of other stuff I knew I wouldn't need.

 

The appreciated part came in when I gave all the extra water away at Muir so I wouldn't hammer my joints on the way back down. Apparantly, people like it if you haul their water up to Muir for them.

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Me and my cousin practicing self rescue hanging from the Ravenna St. Bridge at midnight so the cops wouldn't see us. One cop actually drove by and didn't even turn his head.

 

There is or was some nasty brush under that bridge too...so it doubled as a nice cascades approach simulation.

 

yellaf.gifyellaf.gif I used to rappel from there for practice! hahaha.gif I lived 5 blocks away!

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  • 1 month later...

Back in my military days, an instructor of mine had a training tool called the chariot of fire. This training aid was a wooden pallet with a lawn chair, a cooler, a radio that played nothing but tejano, and an umbrella bolted on to the wood. Plus two sand bags being dragged behind it.

 

We would drag that pallet up and down the beach for hours, while he would sit in the chair and contemplate our next training evolution. That got a lot of strange looks from the girls on the beach. But I will say this after a few weeks of that; there was no pain humping around a 100-pound ruck.

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nailing left handed at work to build accuracy for ice tool placements. My boss never asked, he learned not to when I used to steal his hammer and chin myself with two estwings on the rafters. all good until you figure 4 and slip off the old worn grips. ugh.

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