Alpinfox Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 And anchor the jockey to the ground with a piece of bungee cord. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 i saw some guy whip off darkness at noon once while belayed by 10 year old son. 10 year old son was leashed to a backpack full of rocks. when the guy fell off both son and backpack ended up at the first bolt. AND the kid was belaying with a GriGri!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underworld Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 wait a second...hold the phone. if a gri-gri is a bad idea for belaying a leader, and it looks like a pain-in-the-arse for rapping - is their only strength belaying a follower? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 AND the kid was belaying with a GriGri!!! kid's lucky the whole wall didn't pull over. He should have clipped in to one of the 4 yellow labs sleeping at the base of heinous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted November 25, 2005 Share Posted November 25, 2005 wait a second...hold the phone. if a gri-gri is a bad idea for belaying a leader, and it looks like a pain-in-the-arse for rapping - is their only strength belaying a follower? it is my understanding gri gri's are made for hangdogging on sport routes. for gym climbing. for top roping. not good for belaying a trad leader. i never ever use a gri gri to belay someone on a trad lead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted November 25, 2005 Share Posted November 25, 2005 AND the kid was belaying with a GriGri!!! kid's lucky the whole wall didn't pull over. He should have clipped in to one of the 4 yellow labs sleeping at the base of heinous The leashed he could do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted November 25, 2005 Share Posted November 25, 2005 Should probably clip into more than one. Wouldn't want to be hang-dogging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AFIVE Posted November 26, 2005 Share Posted November 26, 2005 Gri Gri's are nice on grade VI walls. Three hour belay stints kinda suck without one. Feeding out a few feet and tying a backup knot on the brake end is super handy for relieving yourself or digging around in the haulbag. That being said....if you are on a thin nailing route....probably not a good idea due to the non dynamic properties. They are also good for lazy sport climbers who don't want to hold onto their hangdog buddy up at bolt number whatever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thinker Posted November 28, 2005 Share Posted November 28, 2005 My earlier post that was deleted went something like this: I think the fact that there were no slings on the cams contributed to the gear pulling. photo 2 shows all the cams being yanked into a horizontal position by the rope. when the top cam is loaded and violently pulled (back?) into a vertical position all bets are off when one starts predicting where those cam lobes will end up. ...POP....goes the weasel. Lather, rinse, and repeat as necessary until you deck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted November 28, 2005 Share Posted November 28, 2005 nope...totally disagree...climbed a bunch at the creek on small tcu's...never slung them, just used as was with the tape they came with...never had a problem... yer theory might work in flares or cracks that open to the inside, but that particular route is completely parallel...the dude just flat out used the wrong size pieces, period...gri gri had nothing to do with it, and neither did your "theory"...shoot, the piece was at his knee when he cut off... your theory would require climbing that route with 10 or more pieces all with long slings for each one...hmmm, never seen that done before there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted November 28, 2005 Share Posted November 28, 2005 rudy, of course the pro he put in was a MAJOR factor. but the fact of the matter is that gri-gri does provide less dynamic belay, specially if you are on gear/multi pitch routes. my own empirical experience tells me so. the ONLY times (both times i clipped old fixed wires) that i ripped something out were cases when i was belayed with a gri-gri. in sport climbing really doesn't matter, since the strength of the bolt exeeds the the force generated by the fall of the leader. but in more marginal situations i personally do not want to be belayed by someone with a gri-gri. in the case of the pictures on ruby his pro sucked donkey dick- and gri-gri or not a splat like that should not take place. but in general even petzl doesn't recommend using gri-gri on gear climbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 Your right about that. Every time I look at those pics I cringe. That guy could have popped his noggin on the rock and be rolling quad-like Christopher Reeves style. Lucky F-en Bastard. I'm resolving to stop looking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 I always connect my gri gri to my harness with a screamer. Better than an ATC for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted December 6, 2005 Share Posted December 6, 2005 There are alot of dumbasses on this site that either don't climb or are paranoid safety freaks (they probably climb with helmets too) I was just at Indian Creek over the thanksgiving break. I have noticed since the new guidebook came out last year there has been a marked increase in the numbers at IC and the numbers of people at previously seldom visited cliffs. We will probably see alot more of these "decking" stories as more inexperienced people show up at the creek. I don't think I drove past the donelly/supercrack area when there weren't 20 cars there. In my opinion the rock is softer in some places but properly placed cams should still hold well in the creeks parallel sides. As for the "slip" marks on the overclimbed supercrack buttress climbs I think those are likely also caused by incorrectly placed cams as well. Gosolo's Indian Creek and the one I knew even a few years ago was a different place. It was a time where you would walk up and down a cliff and find a crack that "looked good." Sometimes it would be a gem and sometimes you would get your ass kicked. The picture I saw a few weeks ago was one typical to Smith where climbers with shiny new cams stared into the guide and tried to find particular climbs to tick off. It is understandable that a place with such clean cracks and beauty would eventually have a guidebook. Perhaps the desert will have the last laugh though as it spits out those not schooled at the University of Indian Creek. I am glad the dumbass didn't get hurt. Ruby's cafe is a quite difficult climb. Here's a fine desert climb called Deseret Moon. I have nothing bigger than green alien/ blue tcu in while pulling the crux. No helmet, no nuts, no tricams, no falls. The crack on the face above goes for about 60ft at perfect hands size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 6, 2005 Share Posted December 6, 2005 No tricams I don't understand? How is this possible? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted December 6, 2005 Share Posted December 6, 2005 Call me a "paranoid safety freak" then. I'll continue to climb with a helmet. The way I look at it, the brain I have is the only one I'll ever have. A trade-in would be nice, but not an option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted December 6, 2005 Author Share Posted December 6, 2005 Helmet is cheap insurance. I don't know about you but I don't know anyone willing to feed me applesauce through a straw the rest of my life. In the end it's your call but I highly doubt wearing a helmet hinders your climbing ability that greatly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted December 6, 2005 Share Posted December 6, 2005 and to think of the loss of knotledge possible! oh the horror, the absolute horror... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted December 6, 2005 Share Posted December 6, 2005 hey...new nickname for CBS....the knothead!!! or the Knotter... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted December 6, 2005 Share Posted December 6, 2005 Helmet is cheap insurance. I don't know about you but I don't know anyone willing to feed me applesauce through a straw the rest of my life. In the end it's your call but I highly doubt wearing a helmet hinders your climbing ability that greatly. and don't forget the absolute neccissity (spelling?) of a windshirt, ghey buckskin vest, and a shiny rack of neutrinos... one will never be able to send without those decorations! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted December 6, 2005 Author Share Posted December 6, 2005 Every other sport gets it... mtn bikes, kayakers, sky divers, skateboarders, bikers, etc etc Helmets might make the difference. Let me guess Rudy... you don't wear your seat belt either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted December 6, 2005 Share Posted December 6, 2005 depending on the circumstances, i wear a helmet... AND i never leave home without the other gear (a windshirt, ghey buckskin vest, and a shiny rack of neutrinos...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted December 6, 2005 Share Posted December 6, 2005 Every other sport gets it... mtn bikes, kayakers, sky divers, skateboarders, bikers, etc etc That's because those are called "velocity sports," genius. In other news, is this the forum where we post completely irrelevent photos of ourselves sending our proj's at "The Creek" in order to tangentially illustrate the nonsensical point we just made? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted December 6, 2005 Author Share Posted December 6, 2005 Falling objects don't achieve velocity Ice tools do plenty of damage to my face at speeds well below velocity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted December 6, 2005 Share Posted December 6, 2005 You wear a face helmet? You put stickers on that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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