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CascadeClimber

Who's been in the C-J Couloir??

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Loren,

 

Can only comment based on what I saw from the road 2 weeks ago. Likely someone else will have more recent beta.

 

It had a lot of fresh debris with some dirt, though that is pretty typical for this time of year. The Sill Glacier, especially the far W end, sent a number of large sloughs down. The couloir did seem to be continuously filled, but I could not guarantee that.

 

Beyond that, I can't say.

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I climbed C-J about two weeks ago. There were several cracks we had to cross. The lowest was on a snow sliver that is probably melted by now. The middle was avoided by climbing rock on the right. The upper was on a typical snowbridge. There were also quite a few smaller ones that may have opened up. The blue ice near the top was avoided on the right but there was a good 500 vertical feet of firm snow below that. Firm as in too firm to ski.

 

I'll have the photos back within the next few days. Let me know if you'd like to see them because it will be awhile before I have them posted on my website.

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If you go and climb the C-J Couloir and decide not to descend it, I would reccomend taking the Gunsight Notch descent route. I wrote this up in late August:

 

From the Cascade-Johannesberg col, we made a descending traverse on scree below the buttresses of Cascade and the Triplets. From the base of the South buttress on the Triplets, you make a LONG and slightly rising traverse across the alp slope (tall, alpine grass). When you start traversing around the South side of Mixup, you notice a tread in places (a very, very faint trail). There are a few rock gullies to cross, but they are very easy 3rd class at the hardest. Eventually, you get into the narrow, grassy basin below Gunsight Notch, and hike up to it. Even though it is late august, getting on to the snow was only 40 ft. of easy downclimbing (and a rappel would have been easy too - there were already slings). From Gunsight Notch, make a descending traverse to the left, to the Western edge of the Cache Glacier, where one can find a climber's trail leading all the way to Cascade Pass.

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