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Weekend_Climberz

Seattle Drytool Night

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Folks- You are all getting it so wrong-

 

You have to convince the local gyms to let you use a section of wall with modified picks that won't do damange to the holds. It is great training and simulates all the movement better than anything except for the real thing(Not exit 10-50 roadcut)

 

I do it all the time at the BRC in Boulder and it is great prep for the upcoming season.

 

Cheers,

 

Dale bigdrink.gifbigdrink.gif

Edited by daler

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Dale,

Thanks for the tip... however, I live within a 5 minute walk to the best sport routes in the state and a 45 minute drive to the nearest gym. I think I'll stick to the rock and save the gas money for road trips to Canada.

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Folks- You are all getting it so wrong-

 

You have to convince the local gyms to let you use a section of wall with modified picks that won't do damange to the holds. It is great training and simulates all the movement better than anything except for the real thing(Not exit 10-50 roadcut)

 

I do it all the time at the BRC in Boulder and it is great prep for the upcoming season.

 

Huh?

 

Drytooling Thursday November 30???

 

Sounds good to me!! No gym required...

 

Dry tooling with a rope :tup: :tup:

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Gear...

Basically, if you have tools bring them, if you have crampons bring those too smile.gif Maybe bring 1 kit to help set up the top ropes, and if you have an old rope bring that to. It will likely get covered in mud so nothing too new and shiny. Oh and be sure to take your leashes off!

Beyond that... helmet, gloves, and clothing appropriate for the weather, hot tea can be nice too. Oh, and definitely bring the headlamp.

 

Your tools will get dull, your crampons will get dull so no need to sharpen them. There are at least 3 set of anchors, and likely one or two new ones all of which can be set up from above as top ropes. If your feeling spry, two of the lines are very well bolted for leading (thanks Alex!). Oh, and when you fall leading, your crampons will shoot sparks smile.gifsmile.gif The left hand one is pretty straight forward, except for the exit move which involves manteling on tools, and desperate sticks into the grass clump tongue.gif Alex thought it was probably M4. Right hand route has a thin dihedral in the middle but an easier topout. Likely M5? Alex, did anyone ever get the redpoint on the right hand route? Both cruxes have bolts you can clip from below the crux which is much appreciated!

 

also, as it's Issaquah in the winter, plan on getting your rope muddy as hell regardless of what you do.

 

Had lots and lots of fun last winter! Met some cool folks, got to play with a variety of tools. So long as it's not pouring it's pretty cool, and likely dry tooling is the only local real rock to be had til spring. We usually climbed for a couple of hours and everyone did a lap or two on the routes and then headed home.

 

Parking is limited (2, maybe 3 cars if you squeeze) so carpooling is a good idea, though I think the Issaquah P&R is still closed?

 

I can't make it the next two weeks, but will hopefully make it out after Thanksgiving. Have fun and stay dry!

 

So, I'm trying to get this back going regularly every week. Thanks Selkirk for the great description of what to expect if you plan on coming out.

 

With the P&R closed, we meet at the QFC off of the same exit to Highway 900. Shoot me a PM if you plan on coming, so we can make sure we have everyone before heading up to the crag. The only thing we ask is that you have patience and a good attitude, belay skills are always a plus too :grin:

 

First time will be tomorrow night, Thursday the 30th.

Edited by Weekend_Climberz

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So has anyone been out to the I-900 crag yet? Is there still dirt to stick for the top out to the left hand lead route?

Cheers

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It is a good point that Dale makes. You could get way more hours of burn on with light, preset ropes, and short (for most) commute to a gym. I think if there was a persistant enough crowd a gym would probably at least consider it.

 

I wouldn't even mind getting a set of drytool holds for the gym if we could put 'em up.

 

 

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The issue is not with getting them to let us do it, it is with them getting insurance to let us do it. That's why VW shut down the foam at CascadeCrags. Technically, they never had the insurance to do it in the first place, it's just they never said anything so no harm, no foul.

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Yet again this week life has tied my hands. I'm hoping to be able to get out next week, but if you can rally some folks I can give you beta of where the 900 crag is if you don't already know. It's much closer than the Dry Ice crag at Exit 38, and has better lines that are leadable. Shoot my a PM :tup:

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Managed to sneak out there last night for a couple of hours. It's all in good shape. Someone was kind enough to put in a but in a bit of a belay platform at the bottom, and add some links of chain to rap from the top bolts. :grin: Was that you Alex? Thanks to whomever it was. Still need to look more closely at the route on the far right more closely during the daylight to see if it'll go :)

 

Maybe next week we can do an official Seattle DT night. :)

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bump.

 

Met selkirk in the gym today. Got to thinking about scratchin' some rocks up with crampons.

 

Howz Wed night, Oct 24th sound for a DT session?

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Bump. Can't make it tonight but for anyone interested it's a good time!

 

You might even like it Archie, you seem to have a proclivity for harnesses and sharp things. :tup:

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There is a "temporary" P&R just South of the one under construction. It's alot smaller than the one they are building, but serves. That's where to meet.

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