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Slesse NE Buttress beta


jesse

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  • 2 years later...
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Was up there this weekend. The washouts are fine, I drove my van through them no probs. Might be a bit hard on a car though. The bypass glacier was VERY active while we were in the area (North Rib, tr coming soon). Chunks coming off quite regularily all day & night. Should be gone in a week or two!

If you are going back down via Slesse Creek side, melt as much snow as you can when you are above the tree line, cuz theres no water until down about 500m. We were very parched by the time we hit it.

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latest Slesse NE conditions beta:

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Snow around Prop Cairn, Bypass Glacier still mostly there. East Face Glacier sending chunks down to Prop Cairn area. However both Bypass and East Face Gl. are mostly stable right now, only one big chunk of each came off in the 2 days we were watching them.

 

Still snow on the summit and bivy ledge.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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New (2006) Sleese Trail Beta, do not take the right hand spur just before the gate as per Alpine Select unless you want to wade across the creek and bushwack on the old road for 15-30minutes before hitting the buff trail. For the new trail, walk 5-10 minutes past the somewhat defunked gate (~elev 642m) on the logging road for Rexford, at elevation 723m look for a well flagged trail on your right dropping down through older forest towards the main river. It crosses the river on a massive log after traveling south beside the river for 1-2 minutes. After crossing the trail continues south on the west side of the river for 1-2 minutes then climbs on the west side of the valley to join the old logging road as per Alpine Select. The rest of the Alpine Select Beta worked well to the propeller cairn.

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Edited by DougBrownVancouver
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July 22, 2006. Glaciers were very actively calving and three large ice avalanches were noted during the pre-dawn and dawn approach (a section of the toe of the Bi-Pass and two smaller glaciers to the south let go). Traveling on the bi-pass (well back from the active edge) was good in approach shoes with ice axes and aluminum crampons until we were within 200m of the route. At this point multiple hidden seracs were encountered. A path to the base of the route looked possible without any particularly technical climbing, however it would involve traveling below vertical sections of seracs and blocks with considerable hazard (we choose to retreat). The route will likely be in similar shape until the blocks and seracs crumble back, cooler weather allows night-time freezing or the whole thing blasts off for the valley.

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The glacier is still there but it is very passable on the right side without crampons or an ice axe. This however, involves passing under the line of fire and a big piece calved off and avalanched while we watched a few hundred meters away. We decided to call it a day and came back down. Others may feel more comfortable but on this particular day we took it as a sign and ran away.

 

cry.gif

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  • 3 weeks later...

Planning on doing this sept 9/10. Any recent beta on conditions, road access (bridge out?). Also, anyone heading that way interested in arranging a shuttle from the Slesse mt trailhead to wherever you park closest to the NE Butt access. Or, anyone know any detail ($) on being choppered in and maybe interested in sharing a ride with 2 of us?

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Or, anyone know any detail ($) on being choppered in and maybe interested in sharing a ride with 2 of us?

 

Time saved by chopper flight to Slesse - one hour.

But being known as a small-testicled nancyboy with more money than brains will last your whole life.

wazzup.gif

Maybe you should wait till they pave the wheelchair trail and put in handicapped parking?

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wow, I finally register on cascadewankers and ask a question and I get slammed. But hey, I got a response, with useful info at that. I don't know why Nelson pushes the heli thing, unless he gets a kickback or maybe he's a STNB. Now, about that bridge, or do real men swim across?

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