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Mt. Baker, Shuksan, Hood? Next weekend?


cperry

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i am thinking about flying into town next weekend to try to get in some climbing... but i have no idea what conditions are like in the cascades in november (always late may/early june)... Does anyone know what route conditions are like on the north ridge of shuksan right now? i flew out two years ago to make an attempt at in december but snow conditions were too difficult...

will i have better luck next weekend?

if not, can anyone suggest a decent semi-technical route that will be in good shape next weekend... me wanna climb.

 

thanks to all.

 

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Right now, east slope peaks or those further south appear to be better choices. Silver Star Mountain or Mt. Adams might be better than Baker or Shuksan, and the Three Sisters in Oregon might even be better. (Steens Mountain might be even better if you don't want a bunch of new snow.)

 

Of course, if the North Cascades is your target zone, you might pick an objective that does not involve so much high elevation struggle. This weekend the freezing level is 3000' but it is bound to go higher next week. (By the way, the "north ridge" on Mt. Shuksan may not be a route. There is the "North Face" route, which is really the North-Northeast Face, and perhaps the right perimeter of it might be said to be the "North Ridge," but I'm not sure.)

 

In general, November and December are probably the worst months of the year for North Cascade climbing.

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If you've already got your tickets, I'd consider something east of the crest. Maybe the Colchuck Glacier route n Colchuck if the avy hazard isn't too out of control there, or perhaps Mt. Cashmere with a camp at Lake Caroline (?). Even if the weather sucks the camping in the Colchuck cirque is scenic and relatively sheltered.

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