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RuMR

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Persistance.

 

And new shoes that didn't have wiggle room in the toes (Mythos STRETCH).

 

Ditto.

 

I have been climbing in the same old shoes forever. Buddies even started making fun of me. I finally got chided into buying new shoes, and I got those Mythos too. Couldn't believe the difference!! I used to try to muscle my way through crack climbing fiascos, and now, I actually use my feet.

 

But yeah, I still suck.

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Do you lift for power? Low rep sets, and tons of them? I mean like three or four reps, often two, and then maybe ten or twelve sets total per exercise. From 60% of max on the five rep sets, working to 90% or 95% on the two rep sets, Then back down again. You see, it's really scientific Rudy.

 

Timed hangs on crimps, then work up to campusing crimps (build a campus board with them; no campus boards I see have small enough rungs).

 

"Wussy wussy finger strength...."? Hah, haven't you climbed 13+? Such a wussy!

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Do you lift for power? Low rep sets, and tons of them? I mean like three or four reps, often two, and then maybe ten or twelve sets total per exercise. From 60% of max on the five rep sets, working to 90% or 95% on the two rep sets, Then back down again. You see, it's really scientific Rudy.

 

Timed hangs on crimps, then work up to campusing crimps (build a campus board with them; no campus boards I see have small enough rungs).

 

"Wussy wussy finger strength...."? Hah, haven't you climbed 13+? Such a wussy!

 

I can only climb 13-ish on techy routes with footwork and bashing them with six million tries...put me on a newschool bouldering on steep shiznet that involves open handedness and i don't have a prayer of getting my feet off the ground (or arse, as it may be)...

 

I like your ideas on campusing/fingerboards etc.

 

Regarding lifting, i lift for 3 months out of the year...5 sets of 4-7 reps with complete failure occuring on the last set, so i'd say its power-based...not enduro or even power enduro...

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Do you lift for power? Low rep sets, and tons of them? I mean like three or four reps, often two, and then maybe ten or twelve sets total per exercise. From 60% of max on the five rep sets, working to 90% or 95% on the two rep sets, Then back down again. You see, it's really scientific Rudy.

 

Timed hangs on crimps, then work up to campusing crimps (build a campus board with them; no campus boards I see have small enough rungs).

 

"Wussy wussy finger strength...."? Hah, haven't you climbed 13+? Such a wussy!

 

Rumr is so scientific about it that he wears a lab coat when he lifts.

 

But the lifting strategy you mention here will actually impact strength more than power. But its all good. thumbs_up.gif

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