Dr_Crash Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 I'm looking for one or two Ti screws I could carry just for bailing off. Is one brand better (less sketchy?) than others, in the sub-$20 price range? drC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 Abalakov Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stinkyclimber Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 I've never noticed much of a difference, and I have two different kinds (1 of each, and who knows where I found them; I certainly never carry them much anymore). I find rapping off one screw more nerve wracking then rapping off of a v-thread...plus, bringing v-thread cord is lighter and cheaper. I'd just go with v-threads and skip the bail screws altogether. And if you want to bail mid-pitch, a screw may not help because, more than likely, you are bailing because the icejust got wayy too shitty, and so it won't hold a screw anyway. Might as well suck it up and pull thru, or downclimb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 And don't forget the v-thread hooker tool. Life can suck without it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Crash Posted October 28, 2005 Author Share Posted October 28, 2005 I do have my v-thread tool. And I was told that v-threads in very slim ice hold surprisingly well. So good point you all. Just for my education, what'd be a situation where a screw versus a v-thread would be required? I haven't climbed enough ice and am too lazy to think this morning (late night...). drC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 And if you want to bail mid-pitch, a screw may not help because, more than likely, you are bailing because the icejust got wayy too shitty, and so it won't hold a screw anyway. Might as well suck it up and pull thru, or downclimb. aahhhhh, ice climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 I do have my v-thread tool. And I was told that v-threads in very slim ice hold surprisingly well. So good point you all. Just for my education, what'd be a situation where a screw versus a v-thread would be required? I haven't climbed enough ice and am too lazy to think this morning (late night...). drC There is basically no real world situation where you want to leave a screw. Maybe if the ice was in a crack and was too narrow to get a v-thread in but hell you could rap off a hex then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 You should rap off of brand new Grivel 360s or Americanos. Nothing less will do. p.s. Please leave the plastic caps taped to the screw or something. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redoubt Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 There is basically no real world situation where you want to leave a screw.That would only be in that real world where you could never possibly run out of thread material, and/or are comfortable using the unthreading-an-ice-screw-with-a-prusik rap anchor technique recently mentioned in another thread. Otherwise, you'll start leaving screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 Who runs out of thread material while ice climbing? And where did you leave the screws? I could use some new booty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweatinoutliquor Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 Here's a situation... How about you just saw a big nasty 'lanche come down a gully next to you, and you realize your's could be next! Or your buddy get's knocked in the head with a rocky rock and it's time to leave in a hurry! Of course, in that situation I'm not giving much of a shit if I'm leaving behind TI or my nice new turbo's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 You quickly realize in ice climbing (at least on the waterfalls in Canada) that it's always "your gully". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 Do you guys have special bail cams too? Maybe a set of Rock Empire Robots you carry with you in addition to your lead rack for when you have to retreat quickly off a rock route? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweatinoutliquor Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 Of course, in that situation I'm not giving much of a shit if I'm leaving behind TI or my nice new turbo's. Meaning that I wouldn't plan for the shit to go down, ie. bring extra shitty screws. I hate bailing on climbs cause usually that means I got myself into a dangerous situation that I/we are unable to handle. I consider punishment for that type of situation the sacrafice of nice gear to the climbing gods/better climbers than me! I'm happy not pushing my limits like that anyway. So yeah, to answer your question, I don't bring extra bailing stuff (besides webbing). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted October 29, 2005 Share Posted October 29, 2005 Maybe the ice is too thin to build a v thread so you could equalize two tied off screws and rap off that. Jeff Lowe had some kind of crazy scheme for dealing with two tied off screws that seemed like a good but complicated idea. That would be one hell of a scary rap. In this case pins would be a better idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sitandbefit Posted October 30, 2005 Share Posted October 30, 2005 I pulled one of these ti screws on body weight in good ice. I crapped my pants. For what it cost me to replace the pants, I could have bought some nice screws. The moral of the story is that you have to pay one way or the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 I always try to bail off my partners ice screws Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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