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which ice screws?


rockermike

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Guess I am not a big fan of buying "deep". Been awhile since I was on ice but had a chance to try just about every new screw design currently available in a week's worth of climbing in the Rockies recently. Screw design is critical, may be more important than a razor sharp set of teeth.

 

The racking issue can be solved easy enough with gear like the "caritool" or BD's version of same.

 

Cold temps and not the best ice gave us a good idea on what works and what designs weren't quite up to snuff. Desperate placements (which are truly a thing in the past) on a water ice lead are a good example of how fast the gear will work in an alpine environment as well.

 

The newest Grivel 360 and Helix are by far the easiest to place screws I've used. I actually prefer the cheaper Helix on lead. Ice conditions and temps might sway me to one or the other version of the Grivel screw. No one else in the same ball game.

 

Good screws and leashless tools have made ice climbing unbelievably easier, warmer and safer than how the sport started.

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