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DanielHarro

[TR] Mt. Hood- Norht Face Couloir 10/17/2005

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Climb: Mt. Hood-Norht Face Couloir

 

Date of Climb: 10/17/2005

 

Trip Report:

Started at Cloud Cap at Midnight (Sat. 16 of October) and headed up to the North Face. We got on the route an hour or so after the sun came up. The first ice pitch was a little sketchy with a dicey left hand traverse, but the pro was solid. The after the second ice pitch weather came in and the sun went away, thus dropping the temp. We reached the summit right an hour before dark and descended the south side. The entire route took us 22.5 hours from the North to the South side. All in all it was a good climb; the ice is sketchy thin in a lot of places which made it hard to place any pro, thus allowed us to climb faster. I would not recommend this route until the temp drops a little and more solid ice forms. A full trip report will be posted in the next couple of day!! Stay tuned. Pics are also on the way!!

 

Gear Notes:

8 or so ice screws

Pickets

Extra Gloves

Lots of food

A strong desire to make it to the top before it gets dark.

 

Approach Notes:

great approch from cloud cap. Watch for open crevases.

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You gotta post them in the gallery first... Do that or if you want email them to me and I'll do it for you.

 

thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif Good work guys!

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well, when it's thin on hood n.f. you can just throw the pick directly into the rock in those gullies. no hooks needed (except for a stretch near the spire at the top) smirk.gif

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Hey Daniel: What do you think the recent snow fall will have done for this route?

 

Thanks,

 

John Sharp

Bellevue

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I think any time between now and at least Sunday is going to be a post hole spin drift nightmare. Maybe longer.

 

Conservative estimates for snowfall in the next few days are still in the feet!

 

Sorry if you were hoping to hear directly from Daniel! wave.gif

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I think any time between now and at least Sunday is going to be a post hole spin drift nightmare. Maybe longer.

 

Conservative estimates for snowfall in the next few days are still in the feet!

 

Sorry if you were hoping to hear directly from Daniel! wave.gif

 

Yup, the snow is quite deep in places add another 1/4 to your time and LOOK OUT FOR EARLY SEASON CREVASSES BURRIED IN THE SNOW RIGHT NOW!!!!!! (from 'experience')

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Yeah I agree with both Nolse and michael, snow snow snow!! Hey cant complain!! Maybe next week?? Or sunday? Who knows?? You can never trust the weatherman. Keep an eye on the cloud cap road?? If they get a bunch of snow you will have to hike in a little farther, could at some time to your trip, but it would still be woth it!!

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Keep an eye on the cloud cap road?? If they get a bunch of snow you will have to hike in a little farther, could at some time to your trip, but it would still be woth it!!

That's a good question. Do they close that road incrementally (if that's possible) as the snow falls at specific elevations? Or do they shut it down at the bottom at the fork as soon as any significant snow falls?

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To my understading they close the road so that it does not get to thrashed, since the road is not plowed it poses a problem if there is a lot of snow. Every year the road closes at different times, I dont think it is going to close for awhile, but it does sound like we might get a ton of snow from this storm.

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Incrementally? Not to my knowledge. I think they pick a time when there's enough snow, and just close it up for the season.

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i was up there last weekend on the north face. definetely a post holing nightmare! but there is some great ice forming along the cooper spur and on the north face. we went up the middle of the face, and it was flufff. That was last weekend so i would expect that by know the cloud cap road has too much snow to even get up it, weather the gates are open or not. + avalanch conditions are pretty bad. We need some warm weather to consolidate all the new snow, then we the north face will be in Bad ASS shape. not that its not fun now. That was my second time on it this year and i loved it. Go to www.mangiantini.com and click on bob, laura and glens mt.hood trip and you can some of our pics from last weekend. nothing great but gives you and idea.

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Damn, that looked crazy when you were up there. Spindrift pandamonium! Were you trying to summit in those conditions? Thanks for sharing the photos! I was up there a couple of weeks ago, and it looks like a totally different world! thumbs_up.gif

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Oh, man, I didn't know where to post it, but I'll post it here. I snowshoed up to the top of the Palmer today; full on maelstrom.

 

It was falling at an alarming rate up there; even if the gate isn't closed, consider it so. I don't know any vehicle that could make it up and down without a winch and a snowplow.

 

It's only an hour and a half snow-hike anyway, from the Cooper Spur ski area, up to the base of the approach for the NF. Not that we'll be climbing it in the next week or so, anyway. Man, I can't believe how much white is up there! fruit.gif

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SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW SNOW

 

 

Screw climbing! Get out the planks, pull out some wax and get busy! Bummer about the road being snowed in, but I can't help but not feel too horrible about it! fruit.gifbigdrink.gifthumbs_up.gifsnugtop.gif

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I can't believe how much white is up there! fruit.gif

 

This is the PNW, it's white everywhere all the time.

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