ryland_moore Posted July 25, 2002 Share Posted July 25, 2002 Looking to find out about the conditions, exposure on the 5.0 section and how long this "pitch" is, any other info. Would carry some pro and a 8.8 mm rope. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted July 25, 2002 Author Share Posted July 25, 2002 Beckey says 5.6. I usually belie this, but have seen publications that state otherwise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 25, 2002 Share Posted July 25, 2002 Do it  [ 07-25-2002, 09:47 AM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted July 25, 2002 Author Share Posted July 25, 2002 I mean Believe Beckey, not belie him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted July 25, 2002 Share Posted July 25, 2002 Ryland, if you are talking about Notch to summit with rap fr Gendarme, NRS would be a fine solo for the most part. There are only a few "cruxy" feeling sections from a technical standpoint, most notably a short steep 5.7 sequence beginning at about 100 m from the notch, and then up a bit higher a polished slab with a wide crack near the ridge crest. As far as exposure, the entire route is exposed and some of it has crazy ass exposure. If you have any doubts, I suggest you climb the route first with a partner, then go back and solo it for style points at some later time. You are young, don't become a statistic  Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 25, 2002 Share Posted July 25, 2002 YOu can bypass the lower 5.7 on a ledge to the left. I did not do it but I talked to people who have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted July 25, 2002 Share Posted July 25, 2002 Given the recent warmth, presumably the area after the Gendarme rappel is running with water rather than iced up. It would suck to hit verglas there while soloing. I do think Alex's advice is wise, it isn't an inconsequential solo, and it would be best to have some knowledge of the route first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thrasher Posted July 25, 2002 Share Posted July 25, 2002 Yep if you fall bye bye. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted July 25, 2002 Author Share Posted July 25, 2002 Yeah, tried doing it in a day with two partners a few weeks ago and soon realized at Stuart Pass that our ambition was much bigger than our ability. Definately will hump it in to the notch the night before, bivy and head up. The rappel area was the main area I was concerned about. I am not hard core enough to solo/aid the Gendarme. Will look for folks, maybe will just stick to the West Ridge instead. Thanks for input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walter_Burt Posted July 25, 2002 Share Posted July 25, 2002 Another dolt and I soloed from below the notch to the base of the Gendarme 12 years ago while doing the complete ridge. It's all there for soloing though the others are right in that it would be good to get familiar with it first and the exposure is big and constant. However, crossing the couloir was v. insecure (wet, slippery...) - probably the crux of the route for us and we were roped for that section. That section would make an interesting roped solo even. It's not uncommon to find it verglassed. Â By the way, I probably wouldn't solo it again - but I'm old and the consequences part of the risk equation far outweighs the probability part given increased responsibilities, fear and all that other stuff that comes with age and family. Next time up there we'll probably simulclimb with a shortened rope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walter_Burt Posted July 25, 2002 Share Posted July 25, 2002 P.S. Peter Croft soloed it as part of his enchainment - but he did the Gendarme, which was probably a lot safer soloing for him than the couloir. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted July 25, 2002 Share Posted July 25, 2002 Ryland, there are lots of different ways to notch to summit it but I have found the following 3 work best, depending on your skill and fitness: Â option 1: camp at Stuart Pass (no water) and do it in a long day camp to camp. You will need very good fitness, and be reasonably fast, but wont need overnight gear. If you are going real light, however, your overnight gear will only be an additional 5 pounds. Â option 2: From Esmerelda Basin, leave very early day 1 to avoid the sun in Esmerelda Basin, and go as far as you can. Your mileage may vary, but approach time will be between 5 and 7 hours or so to the notch. There is a lot of daylight left, go climb! There are bivy sites all over, but the best one is on the summit. If you are comfortable simulclimbing parts of the route, the route itself will take between 3 and 8 hours to the top. Day 2, finish climbing and descend. You will need good fitness to get high up on day 1, but day 2 is easier compared to option 3... Â option 3: Camp at the notch. This makes for a half day to approach, which works for some and works well when approaching from Stuart Lake. I thought the mosquitos at the Notch sucked, though. There are some more (I wouldnt say better) bivy sites here than up higher, which makes it more likley that you will get one, but makes for a very long summit day and out. Â Its a great route, well worth the logistical challenges it throws at you! Â Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted July 25, 2002 Share Posted July 25, 2002 Oh one last thing. Whatever anyone tells you, do NOT bivy on the ledge at the base of the rap off the Gendarme. It looks comfortable, but when we climbed this, about 3 min after my second traversed the gully a huge amount of ice and stonefall came down the gully and surely would have killed anyone in or near it, including that ledge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted July 25, 2002 Share Posted July 25, 2002 The gendarme only has two tough sections as far as soloing. One is in climbing a 5.9ish dihedral to the ledge and then the real crux is traversing out and up a short offwidth section. Probably a 5.9 offwidth but 5.9 offwidths are none too easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 26, 2002 Share Posted July 26, 2002 Not to be a jerk but my guess is if you have not climbed the NR you wont solo it. You'd likely walk to the base and walk away in fear. It's not a small task to solo. Better off finding a parnter and they are plentiful for the 50 crowded routes. Or unless you want to potentially sacrifice your lifeless mass to the mountain gods. Â [ 07-25-2002, 08:06 PM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted July 26, 2002 Share Posted July 26, 2002 All that being said though, its a great route, and you shouldn't have a hard time drumming up a partner. If you're thinking of soloing, you should be able to lead every pitch, so you don't even need a solid leader for a partner, just someone reasonably fit, a good belayer, and easy to get along with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonnV Posted July 26, 2002 Share Posted July 26, 2002 quote: Ryland, there are lots of different ways to notch to summit it but I have found the following 3 work best, depending on your skill and fitness: Another option. Drive over in the afternoon (or even later in the evening) and hike up to Long's Pass with bivy gear (and some water). Early AM, leave bivy gear at the pass, drop down into Ingalls Creek and hike the trail up to Stuart Pass and continue from there. Less time and work on climb day than going car-to-car, you climb w/o carrying any extra gear, and you have bivy gear at Long's if you can't get all the way out in one day. Same advantages are had by bivying down at Ingalls Creek but often lots of bugs there and you have a bit more gear to haul back up over Long's. My wife and I did this several years ago and it and had a great climb with plenty of time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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