mattp Posted July 29, 2003 Share Posted July 29, 2003 Cavey- I wasn't referring to your earlier attempt and I don't have any idea whether you guys were "off route" or not. My point is that on this and many mountain routes there are lots of possible variations and depending on one's level of skill and their judgment, and on the nuances in the route description itself, they may waste a lot of time obsessing over the very minute details of a route description. If I went up there I'd be looking to follow Jim's description, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 29, 2003 Author Share Posted July 29, 2003 mattp said: Cavey- I wasn't referring to your earlier attempt and I don't have any idea whether you guys were "off route" or not. My point is that on this and many mountain routes there are lots of possible variations and depending on one's level of skill and their judgment, they may waste a lot of time obsessing over the very minute details of a route description. I didnt take it as any sort of criticism in a bad way nor was actually responding directly to your climbs or anyone else's. The waterfalls running down the "easier" portion didnt seem the way to go the day we were there. In retrospect I think we could have still climbed on despite my buddies fall. But I laid that decision as a group decision as I am not an asshole and respect fellow partner's decisions - that maybe it wasnt for us that day. I am fine with that and if anyone wants to ctricize the definition of on or off route that's ok. I am not a good climber and seek the easiest way if I can. I also acknowledge there are multiple routes up there to the goods. Some of them may hold their own secrets though. I dont think there was squabbling or much discussion about the "way" to go that day as far as judgement is concerned. Some had climbed bigger mountains under more dire circumstances - not me. If someone wanted to climb the 3rd class waterfall I would have left sooner. If nobody fell down then it might be done. I took the experience as a - get out of here sign. If someone doesn't beleive in those sort of things that's ok. THere is no hardman quota for me. Still- I will be back. I have heard many good climber friends give me more info that is useful and some mentione it took them 3 tries. Robertm nice photos. I am glad you shared. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted July 29, 2003 Share Posted July 29, 2003 I know of one way to avoid most of the bushwacking: Winter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted July 29, 2003 Share Posted July 29, 2003 Nice pictures Rob! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juan Posted July 30, 2003 Share Posted July 30, 2003 Way to go Robert. Jim Nelson, Bob Davis and I sort of co-wrote the route description in Selected Climbs II, and it sounds like it was more or less what you found. Jim and Peter wrote the history part. The piton you saw was indeed Jim's, and has been there since our trip July 19-20, 1999. We did the rappel option, but the gully had hard snow to the top, so it was fine. The upper gully was maybe four ft. wide. So cool. As for the climbing you did to the left, we said 5.3 because Fred did, I think. Several people have said it's harder. It looked harder, to be honest, but we could only see so much. At our high point, we stopped and headed down after 12 hours of climbing, but without going to the true summit. It still kills me that my name is not in the register. We sat around at about 5:30 p.m. on the plateau just below the summit and wished we had a cell phone as it was obvious we would be overdue. You've all read that story by now. The whole helicopter thing. As for the heather, we didn't use crampons, but did sling a few scrub cedars and Jim placed one piton in a rock outcrop. I have a few pictures looking down at Bob. It's pretty steep. I really want to go back, especially after reading your report. Keep up the good work. John Sharp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertm Posted July 30, 2003 Share Posted July 30, 2003 Shoot you guys would have been out anyways should have just tagged the summit It is only a little over a rope length from the col in the East Ridge to the summit where you pop out. The memories are fading and I might subject myself to another go at the mountain... CJ in winter maybe. I thought the rock variation was cool -- 2 outstanding pitches right on the ridge crest. I can't speak for the gully obviously. If you decide to do the rock variaion take a couple .25 - .50 cams as they come in handy to protect the hard part which is only like 25-30 feet. But since you traverse out left your ass is hanging 2000 feet above the abyss... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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