lancegranite Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 Work brought me Home last week and my work mates and me snuck out to Index saturday. Rob led Roger's Corner to the tree,where he decided that the remainder of his rack was a little light for Breakfast of Champions. Dave followed next, stopping below Marginal Karma to admire the steep crack. Bringing up the rear, I was handed the rack before I even had time to clip into the tree, choosing to hug it while getting ready for BOC. BOC was really fun and I enjoyed every jam. Hanging from the belay, staring at Mt Index, dark mist shrouded and gothic in all of it's badness, the river and forest, rock and clouds. I completely forgot that I live 1200 miles away, own a house, job, bills, animals, friends or family. I did not think about anything.... except that that rock next to the river is a place where my spirit rests. Rain started to fall as we pulled the ropes and a soggy retreat was made, but spirits were high , my friends admiring the fine stone and solid jams. I know what you are thinking... a TR about one climb? yeah, I got one pitch in at Index this year and am extremely thankful.... I can go another year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashclimber Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 Hey I saw you guys up there. My buddy and I went over to the Heart of the Counrty in hopes to get on something. Looked like you guys were on the only dry climb in Index. We were debating if you were on Breakfast or Marginal. From where we were standing we put our money on Breakfast. Glad you guys had fun. We spent the next 2 hours in Monroe traffic, Bothell traffic, and then Ballard traffic trying to make it to the gym. $20.00 in gas later and all I got was a little gym tendonitis! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted October 10, 2005 Author Share Posted October 10, 2005 I saw you as well, blue truck, grey backpack? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 I love Breakfast of Champions. It was dry yesterday too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanTriplett Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 Attractive Nuisiance is ALWAYS dry ... just have to hump your ass up there in the rain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 i must add that breakfast of champs is one of my fav's as well...usually dry, or at least mostly dry, the final moves can get kinda damp when its raining... but hey do most of you stop at the tree, or climb thru, i mean i really enjoy starting from the dirt, climbing rogers corner, and not even touching the tree...this makes it more interesting for rope management, as well as pump-out factor... i was thinking this would be the way to lead marginal karma as well...having all that rope out would make the lob coushy, and what a position...i mean it wouldn't be a big let-down to fall off cause the air would be sweet, just don't land down in that sharp looking flake near the top of rogers corner whats the route on the outside of rogers corner..? now thats got position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 What/where is Marginal Karma? Leading BoC without the stop definitely adds the sporty pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 marginal karma is the finger crack to the right of boc 11b and pretty strenuous imo... some big pulls between good finger locks, a rest, then more steep jamming to the top...the last hand-crack you climb when finishing up rogers corner becomes the Marginal Karma crack...no stoppin at the tree yiipppeee somethin about that .11b grade at index, sooo many good hard climbs...well hard for me, like NAO p.1 pphhhewww... even steven, 2nd pitch lovin' arms, sagg thru the roof, model wrker, etc...whats yer fav index 5.11b? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flashclimber Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 There's a loose block at the top of Marginal Karma. Gonna try to remove it this winter when no one is around. It wont affect the grade/rating. But it will make the route safer and less spooky for those below the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 whattaguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 Doing BOC in one pitch is the way to go! Mega classic. I have always wanted to do Marginal Karma from the ground, but never have. I think to make it better, break right from Rogers Corner early before the tree and plug away. A nice 11b in Levenworth with a small overhang and some thin fingers is Pumpline at Careno Crag. BP, you should check it out sometime! Sitting around at the top of Rogers Corner or on the GNS always brings back memories. They is nothing like sitting on top of the slab on a hot spring day and watching avy´s shoot out of the buttresses on Index. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 exactly tim! thats what i'm talkin about...headin straight up outta rogers into marginal karma...gotta try it... oh and pumpline, love it!!! did it last spring, awesome route, i was very pleased w/ the o.s. there were pretty flowers in my face at the thin middle section...funny, i placed like 12 peices of gear on that rt. i was pumped when i dragged my ass over the lip at the top...great climb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted October 12, 2005 Author Share Posted October 12, 2005 I have attempted RC/ MC, the rope drag was not too bad and only forearm weakness and a steady drizzle put a funk on my attempt. MC is one of the best Index 11b's due to it's steep moves and good gear. I fell and felt no pain... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 nice...i really need to give this one a go on lead...only tr'd it, and i was diggin the moves and position... hopefully the weathers gonna stay somewhat dry, and i can roll out from stevens some afternoon after wrk... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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