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EWolfe

Damnation Crack

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Blake and I got on this Sunday. After struggling through the lower section, I spent some time contemplating the chimney above.

 

How the HELL do you protect that confused.gif

 

The face to the left looked pretty blank. There's a chockstone about 30 feet up...

 

I was saved the SackUp option by rain whipping through the chimney at me. grin.gif

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I watched someone climb it a couple weeks ago, and I believe they were throwing in pro on the right side in cracks ~ 2-3 feet from the chimney? I'm blowin' smoke though, since I didn't get on it myself. Midway was enough chimney for me that day. . . .

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Erik, several folks mentioned it in the "biggest local sandbag" thread, but i think it might ease off after where we stopped. The older guide says pro to 4", which we didn't have, especially after using the big cam lower down.

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Old schoolers told me: Lay back or plastic sack!

 

Crawling into the thing and placing big cams that you will have to climb around would probably work, but lots more effort.

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Old schoolers told me: Lay back or plastic sack! Crawling into the thing and placing big cams that you will have to climb around would probably work, but lots more effort.

 

Good point. Anyone know what the smaller pro is like on either wall? confused.gif

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as mentioned, there's pro on the right, smaller widget in a short vertical crack. believe it's a yellow tcu. then 'bout 15'+ to a blue one (tricky to find, on right again), then short distance to small-med gear back on your left, eventually a nice horizontal crack. the chimney is secure climbing, easier than the lower bit.

 

you can make it go with a 2 or 3" cam and your sack. if you left your sack (or it's wet!), bring big shtuff.

 

good seeing you last wknd MrE. wave.gif

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I recall that upper part just requires a decent runout, but I thought that a couple of wide 5.8 layback moves and some easier stemming would get you up. It's been awhile, I admit, but some pitches just stay burned in your mind.

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Hard but great climb - Lower part is straight forward. I find you can place a 4.5 or 5 in part of it BUT I remember getting good gear in on the main wall BEHIND your head (.75 camalot i think) and some good gear (yellow tcu?) in the "mini" corner roof about halfway up - it takes creative pro but as long as you LOOK every which way you should find it.

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Nice classic 5.8. It is what a 5.8 should be! The climb protects well. Look on either side of the wall and the pro is there. Not sure if I would call it ran out, but its not a sport climb. If I remember right, it is hard to figure out which way to chimney, but as you go up, the route gets easy.

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The wide part was initially protected with a piton (or old bolt)...but during the bolting and debolting of DDD the FA-party gear was for some reason removed. However a #5 camalot works well deep in the chimney and then the yellow tcu that matt_m and others mention above...stemming helps too.

 

I remember my first time climbing it years ago, I contemplated the wide crack move for 20-30 minutes before gathering the gumption..the fall if you fail would suck!

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MisterMo Sir,

 

That looks very much like Al Givler's backside, hammer and all. I was just looking for my picture of Timson in very much the same position with very much the same gear in, probably, very much the same year...

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Ay-yup. Easter Sunday 1970, which fact I clearly recall on account of I was in mildly hot water for going climbing instead of attending some family Easter to-do.

 

Pretty good recall after all these years of aluminum (you've seen my pots) cookware, huh?

 

I posted it so MisterE could zoom in on the rack..........it takes a 3/4", 1 1/2", 2", etc. The floppy leather Raichles with the sides blown out are essential as well.

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One of the best climbs at leavenworth. Do you need to protect a 5.8 chimney? Anyway, it takes small aliens on the righthand side. A great wide crack trainer (steck-salathe trainer)

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Eric,

The hard part is right off the deck, upper part is a back and foot chimney (back against the main wall). There are a couple of horizontal slots in the main wall that take .3 to .4 camalots also nice to have a #1 or #2 or both (depending on your comfort level) for where it narrows back to hands near the top. Chimney looks intimidating but you have a no hands rest at every move.

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There's a blue alien placement 10 feet up the dank chimney in a flaring crack right in front of your schnozz if your back is against the main wall, then a perfect, vertical 1.5 tech friend placement 10 more feet above that's just above your head, after that the main wall protects until the gash narrows above.

 

I think the hardest part is the two/three layback moves off the deck with sweaty hands on polished rock in mid afternoon in the middle of August. Maybe the coolest route up there.

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After an incalculable number of ascents I am uniquely qualified to offer this invaluable advice: pull with your hands, push with your feet, an' 'forya knowit, you'll be on top of that bitch-kitty of a hill.

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I was in Leavenworth last Fri. and did Damnation. Much harder then I expected but still an awsome climb.

In the widest part of the chimney once you get up a little ways I believe you can get a purple TCU or green Alien ( can't remember exactly) on the wall behind you, then a few moves after that a sketchy grey TCU on the wall facing you then 2 more moves and a solid .75 Camalot.

Edited by vwfanatic96

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