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Damnation Crack


EWolfe

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Blake and I got on this Sunday. After struggling through the lower section, I spent some time contemplating the chimney above.

 

How the HELL do you protect that confused.gif

 

The face to the left looked pretty blank. There's a chockstone about 30 feet up...

 

I was saved the SackUp option by rain whipping through the chimney at me. grin.gif

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as mentioned, there's pro on the right, smaller widget in a short vertical crack. believe it's a yellow tcu. then 'bout 15'+ to a blue one (tricky to find, on right again), then short distance to small-med gear back on your left, eventually a nice horizontal crack. the chimney is secure climbing, easier than the lower bit.

 

you can make it go with a 2 or 3" cam and your sack. if you left your sack (or it's wet!), bring big shtuff.

 

good seeing you last wknd MrE. wave.gif

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Hard but great climb - Lower part is straight forward. I find you can place a 4.5 or 5 in part of it BUT I remember getting good gear in on the main wall BEHIND your head (.75 camalot i think) and some good gear (yellow tcu?) in the "mini" corner roof about halfway up - it takes creative pro but as long as you LOOK every which way you should find it.

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Nice classic 5.8. It is what a 5.8 should be! The climb protects well. Look on either side of the wall and the pro is there. Not sure if I would call it ran out, but its not a sport climb. If I remember right, it is hard to figure out which way to chimney, but as you go up, the route gets easy.

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The wide part was initially protected with a piton (or old bolt)...but during the bolting and debolting of DDD the FA-party gear was for some reason removed. However a #5 camalot works well deep in the chimney and then the yellow tcu that matt_m and others mention above...stemming helps too.

 

I remember my first time climbing it years ago, I contemplated the wide crack move for 20-30 minutes before gathering the gumption..the fall if you fail would suck!

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Ay-yup. Easter Sunday 1970, which fact I clearly recall on account of I was in mildly hot water for going climbing instead of attending some family Easter to-do.

 

Pretty good recall after all these years of aluminum (you've seen my pots) cookware, huh?

 

I posted it so MisterE could zoom in on the rack..........it takes a 3/4", 1 1/2", 2", etc. The floppy leather Raichles with the sides blown out are essential as well.

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Eric,

The hard part is right off the deck, upper part is a back and foot chimney (back against the main wall). There are a couple of horizontal slots in the main wall that take .3 to .4 camalots also nice to have a #1 or #2 or both (depending on your comfort level) for where it narrows back to hands near the top. Chimney looks intimidating but you have a no hands rest at every move.

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There's a blue alien placement 10 feet up the dank chimney in a flaring crack right in front of your schnozz if your back is against the main wall, then a perfect, vertical 1.5 tech friend placement 10 more feet above that's just above your head, after that the main wall protects until the gash narrows above.

 

I think the hardest part is the two/three layback moves off the deck with sweaty hands on polished rock in mid afternoon in the middle of August. Maybe the coolest route up there.

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I was in Leavenworth last Fri. and did Damnation. Much harder then I expected but still an awsome climb.

In the widest part of the chimney once you get up a little ways I believe you can get a purple TCU or green Alien ( can't remember exactly) on the wall behind you, then a few moves after that a sketchy grey TCU on the wall facing you then 2 more moves and a solid .75 Camalot.

Edited by vwfanatic96
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