Cpt.Caveman Posted July 7, 2002 Share Posted July 7, 2002 Stuff up there in good shape. I climbed a couple peaks and watched some parties bail on one. Trail is wiped out by avies a ways in there. Go to the avy debris. Then go up it several hundred yards. Look for a snow wand sticking out a fallen tree root on the opposite side of the debris. From there go to the trees on that opposite side. Bushwack straight up to below Sahale. I have never been in there before and found it no problems. Dont bother asking me any more beta. [ 07-07-2002, 08:28 AM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted July 7, 2002 Share Posted July 7, 2002 Hey Cap'n, Did you go see Geordie or were you an outlaw? What peaks did you climb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 8, 2002 Share Posted July 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Stuff up there in good shape. I climbed a couple peaks and watched some parties bail on one. Trail is wiped out by avies a ways in there. Go to the avy debris. Then go up it several hundred yards. Look for a snow wand sticking out a fallen tree root on the opposite side of the debris. From there go to the trees on that opposite side. Bushwack straight up to below Sahale. I have never been in there before and found it no problems. Dont bother asking me any more beta. The people demand chestbeating gapewad TR!!!!! Tell us how you pulled the bloody flesh off your feet and threw it in the cook-pot for dinner. "It might be our last meal ever..." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figger_Eight Posted July 8, 2002 Share Posted July 8, 2002 Thanks for the steps yesterday morning Caveman. Mo' Beta: go across the slide and look for the waterfall. Trail is just below. It still might be better to 'whack your way up to Sahale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highclimb Posted July 8, 2002 Share Posted July 8, 2002 no way....i cant beleive what i am seeing.....the captian..giving useful beta!? no fuckin way! Aidan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 8, 2002 Author Share Posted July 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Figger Eight: Thanks for the steps yesterday morning Caveman. Werd up. You the guys bailin up on the unnamed glacier coming behind us in our steps? Shrund looked easy but heard it was thin bridge later on. Oh well... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 8, 2002 Author Share Posted July 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: quote:Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Stuff up there in good shape. I climbed a couple peaks and watched some parties bail on one. Trail is wiped out by avies a ways in there. Go to the avy debris. Then go up it several hundred yards. Look for a snow wand sticking out a fallen tree root on the opposite side of the debris. From there go to the trees on that opposite side. Bushwack straight up to below Sahale. I have never been in there before and found it no problems. Dont bother asking me any more beta. The people demand chestbeating gapewad TR!!!!! Tell us how you pulled the bloody flesh off your feet and threw it in the cook-pot for dinner. "It might be our last meal ever..." Here is my chestbeater TR! --> Chestbeatergalore [ 07-08-2002, 08:23 AM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 8, 2002 Share Posted July 8, 2002 At least there is some eye candy in those pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hollyclimber Posted July 8, 2002 Share Posted July 8, 2002 The weekend rocked, bivied on Fri night with just my ultralight bag because it was nice and warm...a perfect weekend in the N Cascades. I saw those guys bail at the base of the W Ridge of Forbidden...guess they didn't like that snow bridge into the gully. can't wait to go back up there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hollyclimber Posted July 8, 2002 Share Posted July 8, 2002 one more thing... after running pretty short on food, horsecock rocked my world. I almost bought some at the grocery store last night since it still sounded Sooo good... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 8, 2002 Author Share Posted July 8, 2002 horsecock and cheese the ultimate alpine diet when snafflehound soup cannot be made Glad you two made it down ok. We had to bail as B. needed to be back home. Or else we would have waited. Also did not want to bushwack in the dark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 8, 2002 Share Posted July 8, 2002 Ray is a tease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 8, 2002 Author Share Posted July 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by chucK: quote:Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I climbed a couple peaks and watched some parties bail on one. OK, so one was Forbidden. What route did you do? What was/were the other peak/peaks? Who really cares what I did. The mountains are all in good shape. Read beta above. If my fat ass can do it anyone can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenfork Posted July 8, 2002 Share Posted July 8, 2002 Caveman prefers to keep quiet about his ascents. He doesn't spray about them like some other gapers on this board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted July 8, 2002 Share Posted July 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: Ray is a tease. He is an enigma . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 8, 2002 Share Posted July 8, 2002 A hazardous enigma Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted July 8, 2002 Share Posted July 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: A hazardous enigma Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted July 9, 2002 Share Posted July 9, 2002 What's up with the snow birdge at the base of Forbidden? Is it passable? Want to get up there this weekend. Any beta? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
otherguy Posted July 9, 2002 Share Posted July 9, 2002 I hope to climb it too. [ 07-08-2002, 12:17 PM: Message edited by: otherguy ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 9, 2002 Author Share Posted July 9, 2002 Here is my beta- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted July 9, 2002 Share Posted July 9, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I climbed a couple peaks and watched some parties bail on one. OK, so one was Forbidden. What route did you do? What was/were the other peak/peaks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted July 11, 2002 Share Posted July 11, 2002 quote: Originally posted by chucK: quote:Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I climbed a couple peaks and watched some parties bail on one. OK, so one was Forbidden. What route did you do? What was/were the other peak/peaks? East Ridge on Forbidden and Sahale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Picketeer Posted July 12, 2002 Share Posted July 12, 2002 That's the kind of beta I can appreciate Cap'n! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jarred_Jackman Posted July 12, 2002 Share Posted July 12, 2002 The snow bridge isn't that bad, it's thin but with a belay it's not a big deal. The only thing is the temperature, if it's really warm shit comes cruising down the couloir. The bergshrund shouldn't be the stopping factor if you're thinking of heading up there. take a picket and leave it there if you want to REALLY protect the moves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tobytortorelli Posted July 12, 2002 Share Posted July 12, 2002 Personally i enjoy trip reports that are well done and to the point. An added picture is a nice bonus. This is the only reason i use this web-site and the reason for it's creation i believe.....Too often it is packed full of off topic crap. Thanks C for the nice picture....T. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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