RedFir Posted September 27, 2005 Share Posted September 27, 2005 Hi everyone, I'm about to leave on my first trip to Yosemite and my partner and I are looking for a few suggestions. We're hoping to take in some crag and multipitch climbs. We're solid 5.10 climbers at Leavenworth (etc) but have been told that Yosemite ratings are stiffer. We're hoping to warm up for a week or so on some 5.7 - 5.9 climbs. S0, anyone have any route recommendations? Thanks for your thoughts. And yes, we have a few of the guide books. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted September 27, 2005 Share Posted September 27, 2005 Go solo After Six, it is fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted September 27, 2005 Share Posted September 27, 2005 The Chris Mac Supertope/Supercrowded Free Climbs is a good book for classics. The are some shorter routes at the Camp 4 wall in the 5.7-5.9 range, but mostly not worth the effort. The Churchbowl is also a really nice place to crag. Pine Line 5.7 at the base of El Cap is really nice, but short. Around the area are also a bunch of crag routes. Bishops Terrace - Amazing 5.8 Braile Book - Hard 5.8 Multi Pitch Nutcracker - 5.8 is amazing, but expect crowds Commitment 5.9 in the Five Open Books is nice. Moby Dick - 5.10a - great OW, bring several 3, 3.5 and 4. East Buttress of El Cap is a nice long 5.10- Serenity Crack thru Sons of Yesterday is beautiful. The 5.10- pitches felt harder than the crux 10d pitch, which is only like 15 feet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted September 27, 2005 Share Posted September 27, 2005 Oh yeh, Moby Dick is really good... I only had one #3 when I did it. That was interesting to say the least! So bring more than that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cycling_mike Posted September 28, 2005 Share Posted September 28, 2005 Do NE butr. of higher cathedral. it's the "best grade IV in the valley" gear to 3" old skool 5.9ish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k.rose Posted September 28, 2005 Share Posted September 28, 2005 Do Reed's Direct one of the best crag routes anywhere, some other personal favorites are Entrance Exam, and Gripper down at Arch Rock. Outer limits and Meatgrinder at the Cookie are both quite good. In the valley proper Central Pillar of Frenzy is a good intro to valley climbing 5 pitches, variety of sizes, and I think easy for the grade. For longer stuff East Buttress Mid Cathedral is the easiest long route, take the original route above pitch 5 to give it more of that yosemite flavor. As mentioned NE buttress of higher Cathedral is excellent, then if all of these go well try the Steck-Salathe on Sentinel which is my favorite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thinker Posted September 28, 2005 Share Posted September 28, 2005 Jam Crack Snake Dike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fgw Posted September 28, 2005 Share Posted September 28, 2005 Lost Arrow Tip (5.7 C1+ or something like that). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colt45 Posted September 29, 2005 Share Posted September 29, 2005 If you have any interest in splitter granite cracks, definitely do Central Pillar of Frenzy and Serenity/Sons! In my opinion, Valley ratings aren't that different from Leavenworth (and are easier than Index) so you should have lots of options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 29, 2005 Share Posted September 29, 2005 (edited) redfir, you have recieved some great recommendations here, good advice all of it. No one mentioned Royal Arches or Super Slide (Super Slab), but they are both good as well. Edited September 29, 2005 by billcoe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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