Jump to content



Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,


I'm about to leave on my first trip to Yosemite and my partner and I are looking for a few suggestions. We're hoping to take in some crag and multipitch climbs.


We're solid 5.10 climbers at Leavenworth (etc) but have been told that Yosemite ratings are stiffer. We're hoping to warm up for a week or so on some 5.7 - 5.9 climbs.


S0, anyone have any route recommendations? Thanks for your thoughts. And yes, we have a few of the guide books.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 9
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

The Chris Mac Supertope/Supercrowded Free Climbs is a good book for classics.


The are some shorter routes at the Camp 4 wall in the 5.7-5.9 range, but mostly not worth the effort. The Churchbowl is also a really nice place to crag.


Pine Line 5.7 at the base of El Cap is really nice, but short. Around the area are also a bunch of crag routes.


Bishops Terrace - Amazing 5.8

Braile Book - Hard 5.8 Multi Pitch

Nutcracker - 5.8 is amazing, but expect crowds


Commitment 5.9 in the Five Open Books is nice.


Moby Dick - 5.10a - great OW, bring several 3, 3.5 and 4.


East Buttress of El Cap is a nice long 5.10-


Serenity Crack thru Sons of Yesterday is beautiful. The 5.10- pitches felt harder than the crux 10d pitch, which is only like 15 feet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do Reed's Direct one of the best crag routes anywhere, some other personal favorites are Entrance Exam, and Gripper down at Arch Rock. Outer limits and Meatgrinder at the Cookie are both quite good. In the valley proper Central Pillar of Frenzy is a good intro to valley climbing 5 pitches, variety of sizes, and I think easy for the grade. For longer stuff East Buttress Mid Cathedral is the easiest long route, take the original route above pitch 5 to give it more of that yosemite flavor. As mentioned NE buttress of higher Cathedral is excellent, then if all of these go well try the Steck-Salathe on Sentinel which is my favorite.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...