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[TR] Assiniboine- North Face 9/6/2005


Fuggedaboudit

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Originally my friend Chris and I had hoped to climb Robson by the Fuhrer Ridge, but heavy snow made that too dangerous. We had booked some time with Barry Blanchard and spent a day at Yamnuska doing a chimney climb. Then we helicoptered into the park and hiked up to the Hind Hut on 9/5/05. Left hut 5:30 AM the next day. Chris Barry and I were going up the North Face while Jonathan and Martino went for the North Ridge. Weather was great but there was lots of snow, crampons stayed on the entire day. Made slow but steady progress to a rock scramble (low 5th class but with east face 3000' exposure)which led to the summit cornice. On top at 3:30 PM, waited for Martino and John to summit and then we all decided to rap down together. 20plus rappels, none of us were able to keep count. Burned all of our slings and pitons as well as some nuts. Dropped my ATC about half way down. About five times we went to pull the ropes and they got hung up. Shit!!! But the weather was great and we were back at the hut at 12 midnight on the dot. Hiked out the next day to the Assiniboine Lodge (great people there, gave us cookies and coffee). Apparently the guests had been watching us in a telescope from the lodge. Rested a day and then headed up to the icefields as weather forecast turned for the worst. Got about four pitches up peak A2 (subsidiary peak of Athabasca) before the snow really started comming down. Snow/rain for the next few days ended the trip. A beautiful mountain, stunning. I'm sure better climber with better conditions could race up and down, but I prefer the winter conditions. Couldnt have been more perfect for me.

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