Forbidden Peak West Ridge 6/13 – 6/14, 2002

[weekend_warrior_wannabe]

Jerry and I decided to give this one a go despite the fact that we had limited time and the road was closed. This is our story.

 

Approach on Cascade River Road -- The road is gated at the Eldorado trailhead, just before MP 20. It probably could be open until MP 21 but maybe there isn’t any parking available there? There are only some minimal trees and brush to cross to MP 21. You could manage this far on a mountain bike. After this, there are awesome avalanche paths that have come down from both the Johannesburg and Forbidden sides. In some spots there is probably 6 feet of snow and debris still covering the road. It’ll be a while before this is cleared away. Selected Climbs says “Drive 21.7 miles on the Cascade River Road” which very well could be the case. However, be advised that the junction for the Boston Basin train is past MP 22. Following the road is very straightforward.

 

Approach on Boston Basin Trail – The 1st ¾ of a mile on the old mining road is in good shape with some mud and a few blown down trees. After this, the way is complicated because you have to cross the same awesome avalanche paths that went all the way down the valley to the Cascade River Road. Pay attention, the way is easy to lose with intermittent snow patches beginning here (elev. approx. 3,800’). The 1st major stream crossing went across a snow bridge that looked suspect and, given the very warm temperatures of the entire week before, made for a raging stream beneath. We made it ok. After this, there may be 4 more avalanche paths to cross. All paths have snow underneath and are covered by fir and hemlock trees and are littered with branches everywhere. This was my 1st trip to Boston Basin but I suspect these conditions are going to make the hike in more challenging now and perhaps for several seasons to come. When we saw solid snow heading up to above timberline we took it, knowing our route was a bit more circuitous but would be easier to navigate as it was now getting dark (we left the car @ 6:30 pm).

 

Boston Basin -- The entire basin is snow covered and there is no grass to be seen. Not being familiar with the area, we trudged around in the dark looking for a place to camp and get a few hours sleep. After some tribulation, we found a little valley where we could dig out a spot with enough room for 2 sleeping bags. Fortune was nice and there was running water on some nearby rocks so we didn’t have to break out the stove in the windy basin.

 

Unnamed Glacier Crossing – We left camp at 5 am and the snow was very soft. We didn’t use crampons during the entire climb but we did carry them with us thinking the couloir could have some nasty rime. We made it to the couloir in about 2 hours. We saw no sign of any major crevasses on the glacier only avalanche paths from snow that had fallen from higher up on previous days.

 

Couloir – The soft snow conditions made for a tiring ascent but also allowed for super sure foot and ice axe placements. At first the couloir looked benign with the soft snow and no apparent bergschrund. However, when we got higher, there was indeed a nasty ‘schrund that had a 40+ foot drop off onto some solid slabs. Falling and making it out was not an option! So we roped up here and decided to make a running belay up the couloir. You have to go in high and to the ascender’s left (west). I was able to place a picket as a deadman in the soft snow and higher up I got in some rock pro. There is a nasty moat between the rock wall on the couloir that is very deep and scary. It will go soon. Stay left towards the top of the gully where there is a chimney to the right. The snow took me to about 50 feet of Class 4 rock and then to the ridge. We made the ridge by 10am. Incidentally, the couloir bypass to the west is not an option as it is completely snowbound now.

 

West Ridge -- Upon 1st glance, we were crestfallen to see snow still on the ridge. Our relative strength was our rock skills and we knew we would be able to do a running belay up most of the normal route. Our 1st reaction was it wasn’t safe to proceed. So we took a 45 minute break and I thawed out my wet frozen feet on some warm rocks (my boots leak). We decided to give it a go anyhow. We went up probably 3 pitches worth on running belay when we decided the road ahead was a dead-end. The North bypass was snow covered but it didn’t look like a very stable snow. Some of the steeper alternatives on the South had water running over them which didn’t look inviting either given the exposure and the fact that we had only brought our mountain boots. Discretion was the better part of valor and we turned around.

 

Couloir Descent – Jerry was a real pal – he brought an extra 60m rope for the notoriously difficult descent. We had 2 ropes so we thought the hard part was done. The 1st double rope rappel (2 60m ropes) reached a belay station with about 6” to spare! After that, we got hung out to dry. With the high amounts of snow, it’s likely that the stations are still buried. I climbed up the rock (to west) and found a rappel station out of the gully so we rapped from here. We again got hung out and had to set up an anchor in the rock while standing in the sketchy moat. We must have been the 1st ones on the route this year because all of the webbing looked old so we backed up all stations. The mountain wanted to pull us into the moat which was pretty scary. We both agreed this was the most fatiguing set of rappels we had done. I climbed up once to free the stuck rope and it was less work. In retrospect, we may have been better off with a belayed (running or otherwise) down climb. Not falling into the ‘schrund was our biggest goal so the extra time and effort was worth it to us.

 

Glacier descent -- This was fast and easy. We made it to camp in 30 minutes. Beware that there is still a lot of loose, unconsolidated snow sliding off the mountain onto the descent path. Cooler temperatures may help. The snow on the entire route was very grainy and way easy to dig into (I could dig a hole with my hands).

 

Hike out -- Take caution to follow your path out. I thought we could save some time by following the “Spring Route” (ref. Beckey) and avoid the lower parts of the avalanche paths. To be fair, we did say time by traversing high. However, we descended the last avalanche gully and somehow missed the “trail”. By the time we realized it, we were way low (my altimeter watch was way off the entire trip) and could see the Cascade River Road. We got wedged between 2 creeks (Morning Star and Boston I think) and had no real alternative but to bushwhack to the road. This was the most difficult and unpleasant experience we had ever succumbed to (or so we said at the time). We made the road 3.5 hours from camp and made the car in another hour (10 pm).

 

Conclusions – This is a spectacular climb in an unbelievable area. We only allowed about 24 hours which is pretty tough with the added 2.5 miles (each way) road approach and the probable complications of the route. It’s still a bit too early for the West Ridge to be enjoyable. A true Cascade Hardman would probably have no problem but I’m just a Weekend Warrior Wannabe. In all seriousness, Jerry and I have intermediate skills. We climbed efficiently and handled the difficulties well, if not at supersonic speed. The West Ridge would be the easiest part for the both of us. Most intermediates will find this a joy and challenge in good conditions and a bit scary in bad conditions. I suggest an early start on climb day and plan on camping in the Basin rather than hiking out. This allows for plenty of time and enjoyment of the route. My best advice is to not miss the trail as the bushwhack took more from us than the entire climb.

[PackOnMyBack]

quote:

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Originally posted by JERRY SANCHEZ:

Great report!!!

 

Any pictures?

---

Jerry,

I ended up with some pretty good digitals of the basin and the route. Let me know how to get them to you.

[JERRY_SANCHEZ]

Great report!!!

 

Any pictures?

[pete_a]

Great trip report, thanks for posting it. You guys hiking out Friday night, right? Just curious...three friends of mine and I were hiking in to the trailhead Friday night and passed a team of two around 9:30pm on the road who said they had attemped the West Ridge of Forbidden....wondering if you were them.

My group bived at the trailhead, got up at 4am and successfully climbed the West Ridge route in a rather brutal but entirely do-able 17 hour marathon trailhead to trailhead. There was another party of two climbing just ahead of us who also pulled off a successful one-day trip (except they didn't sleep at all...just arrived at the Eldorado parking lot at something like 11pm and went straight on through.) We were lucky that we had this party a couple pitches in front of us to do the problem solving for us as they found a route around the patches of snow still clinging to the steeper sections on the north side of the west ridge.

Hell of a climb, incredible weather, no crowds, could be the best trip of the summer for me.

 

I should add that we were fortunate to find the trail on the way out which made for a easy descent back to the road....I'm sorry that you guys had to bushwack all the way down...yuck!

 

[ 06-17-2002, 12:18 PM: Message edited by: pete a ]

[PackOnMyBack]

pete a,

That was my partner and I ahead of you. Thanks to your group for the cooperation on the route, it was a pleasure to climb with you. Congratulations on your summit. We never saw you in the couloir on the descent and I'm glad to hear you got out alright! Definately the hightlight of my summer so far.

[pete_a]

Hey PackOnMyBack,

Nice to meet ya! Glad to hear you guys got down without any troubles. Our descent took a little while in the coulior...as our 50 meter ropes didn't quite reach the second rap station and we had to rig an intermediate rappel anchor to reach all the other slings. That probably ate up an hour or so of time on our descent and put us well behind you guys.

[weekend_warrior_wannabe]

Pete A,

 

Yah that was my partner and I. We were so cooked by the bushwhack we couldn't think straight, otherwise we would have stopped and chatted and gladly given info. You made a good call avoiding the heavy packs on the approach.

 

I kind of thought the Ridge might be doable but we needed to get out that night so we opted to turnaround. Had I seen someone do it, I'm sure we would have done it.

 

That was our rope -- nobody got hurt. It wasn't dry treated and got stuck during a rap. The top of the 'scrund looked too dangerous to risk going near it for a $120 rope.

 

Great work to the 6 of you that made it. We were the only 2 there that day -- the solitude was incredible. I'll just have to go back. Have a good season.