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travisdutton

In shape for mountaineering?

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I just came back from Alaska where I got some experience with climbing and now that I am back in Portland I am anxious to pick it up as a main source of entertainment...I have been mostly unsuccessful in finding a training program for climbers...anyone have any suggestions or directions to look?

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Get a copy of "Extreme Alpinism" by Mark Twight. Lots of good training info in there. "Ice and Mixed Climbing" by Will Gadd also has some good tips. Note that both authors are genetic mutants and training fiends.

 

You'll probably get more responses by asking in the Body Results Fitness Forum. laugh.gif

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Why go to Crossfit when there's probably a Curves right next to your local Starbucks smirk.gif

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Because Curves donates money (10% of profits)to pro life groups.

 

begin rants now...

 

Nothing curvier than woman at the prime of her gestational period! rolleyes.gif

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oooooooooooooookidoki then.....

 

Travis I have a book called "Conditioning for Outdoor Fitness." It's ok but I really can't be bothered to do all the exercises it recommends. Has some good general info though. Really the only thing I've found that really gets you in shape for climbing is climbing. For some reason gym fit doesn't mean climbing fit. Just gotta get out there and do it. Which sucks when you live below sealevel in a city that doesn't even have a tall building with a flight of stairs.

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Speaking of books, a decent one is "Training for peak performance" (ha ha, thanks for the pun) published by the Mountaineers and focused on climbing only (unlike the previous one). Some good info and no nonsense. Warning: reading has not been evaluated by the FDA as a way to make you fit.

 

drC

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those crossfit gyms are SO EXPENSIVE!!!

You don't have to go to the gym if you don't want. They post a workout everyday here: www.crossfit.com

 

Though the blend between personal training and group work really ends up providing much more benefit for the effort and is worth the cost in my opinion. PM me if you want to know more about whats going on in seattle for crossfit.

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This may be a bit out there but here goes:

 

The best way to get in shape for moutnaineering is to go climbing. Put on a pack and go for a hike make some ill-fated atempts. Get to the hills and walk up something. There is no substitute for the real thing.

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Extreme Alpinism by Mark Twight, and "go climbing". However there is also other good cross training. For a better cardio workout, mountain biking. Your body is pushing an extra 35 pounds up hill, thats good. For endurance training, nothing is better than doing long 12-hour hikes with a 20 pound pack. Things like Tomyhoi via Yellow Aster Buttes in the North Cascades, or linking Broken Top and S Sister in Oregon in a day car-to-car come to mind as perfect 12-hour training workouts. Also living in PDX you can make hiking up all or a portion of Mt Hood S Side a habit. In the winter it becomes really good training as you get to deal with weather all the time. You can hike up under the lift towers on the Palmer in the driving snow and wind and get a real feel for "when the shit hits the fan" without actually getting killed.

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"Training for Peak Performance" is the way to go!! I've used this book for 1.5 years and it has really paid off!!

 

It is so crucial to have endurance up there- not only physically but mentally as well. I found that, believe it or not, spending 60-75 minutes straight on a treadmill or stair-climber is a good way to prepare your brain (plus your lungs and legs) for those long days in the hills.

 

I also agree that "there is no substitution for the real thing" and this book has training schedules worked out around doing weekend outings. A++

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The best way to get in shape for moutnaineering is to go climbing. Put on a pack and go for a hike make some ill-fated atempts. Get to the hills and walk up something. There is no substitute for the real thing.

 

Also living in PDX you can make hiking up all or a portion of Mt Hood S Side a habit. In the winter it becomes really good training as you get to deal with weather all the time. You can hike up under the lift towers on the Palmer in the driving snow and wind and get a real feel for "when the shit hits the fan" without actually getting killed.

 

weekly south side proposal wave.gif

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You can hike up under the lift towers on the Palmer in the driving snow and wind and get a real feel for "when the shit hits the fan" without actually getting killed.

Hike up on the side climbers trail please don't hike up under the lift towers. For pure exertion hiking/running the steeper gorge trails will come close/surpass hood.

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crossfit would be the best in my suggestion, with things like hood and other training hikes on weekends. Also check out Twights gym at GymJones.com some videos too.

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In the PNW try adventx.com in Seattle - it's the real deal, some of the instructors are guides. No BS, No attitude, professional training but a lot of fun. Nice people. It's not cheap but if your broke they'll cut you a deal.

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You can hike up under the lift towers on the Palmer in the driving snow and wind and get a real feel for "when the shit hits the fan" without actually getting killed.

Hike up on the side climbers trail please don't hike up under the lift towers. For pure exertion hiking/running the steeper gorge trails will come close/surpass hood.

 

I disagree w/ the comment on the lift towers. The point is to hike under them when the weather is bad so you can find your way down. I think as long as you don't go out of your way to screw the grooming up it's no big deal. There's usually a cat track on the inside of the groomed run where you can walk without screwing up the ski runs. The "climber's trail" is only maintained a few months a year anyway.

 

I do agree w/ the Gorge comments, though. There are many 3-4k hikes in the Gorge that are great training. Nesmith point is close and has around 4k vertical gain. Views are suck to nonexistent, but it's a good workout.

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