DCH Posted June 10, 2002 Share Posted June 10, 2002 Looking for current conditions and route info for the Mary Green Glacier route on Bonanza Peak. Anyone been up there yet this year? We're considering giving it a shot next weekend. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted June 10, 2002 Share Posted June 10, 2002 Try that russian route done a few years back. Seriously, I've always wondered about that mountain. Please post a TR and photos if possible. Thanks, Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted June 10, 2002 Share Posted June 10, 2002 Hah, the Soviet Route was an old obsession of mine. Might still be, but I haven't fed that particular beast in awhile. Has it ever actually been repeated? Its hard to find anyone who even knows about, much less having done it. I traversed under it once, enroute to the couloir on the SW peak. FYI, that couloir is not one of those that results in late season water ice (silly boys, where did we think we were, the Sierras?). Awesome blueberry picking on the way to the Bonanza-Northstar col though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 10, 2002 Share Posted June 10, 2002 I think some dudes climbed it a couple of season's ago. If you do a search here you might just find something. Â [ 06-10-2002, 08:31 AM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted June 10, 2002 Share Posted June 10, 2002 I climbed it last summer along with Maude, Fernow, Copper, and one whose name I forget - Seven fingered Jack(?). Anyway, we camped at the lake and went up the Mary Green, and took a center route through the glacier, not the route in Becky. This wasn't on purpose however. On the way back we tried to go this way but were pushed towards the center of the glacier anyway because of a mondo crevasse. The rock was very exposed, mosty 4th class (in my opinion), the lower 3/4s had alot of loose stuff on shelves. It's a great alpine peak, kinda out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MounTAIN_Woman Posted June 10, 2002 Share Posted June 10, 2002 We did the Mary Green a couple years ago, about this time of year. Check out Washington Trails Association's website www.wta.org under Trip Reports, and do a search for Bonanza Peak. Â It's an awesome climb; the picket-fence knife edge stuffed with scree that makes up the final ridge to the summit will get your heart started! If you can't find it on the WTA website, send me a PM and I can email you the longer version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted June 10, 2002 Share Posted June 10, 2002 I have gone after the Soviet route . I dont think it will ever be repeated. The"rock"on Bonanza is terrible. It may be the only peak that Fred hasnt climbed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 10, 2002 Share Posted June 10, 2002 Soviets are tougher. Yah I dont think fred has either! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alasdair Posted June 10, 2002 Share Posted June 10, 2002 How long did you take for your trip on Bonanza, Maude, Fernow, copper, and Seven Fingered Jack? Did you do the traverse from Holden? I want to do this exact thing. Can you give me more beta on your trip? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted June 11, 2002 Share Posted June 11, 2002 Alasdair - We stashed extra food at Holden in the hiker's hut, they're pretty friendly, climbed Bonanza and came back to Holden. Then ran up Copper from a camp in Holden. Then up to Copper Basin for a camp, next day up to the pass at the head of Copper Basin and ran up Fernow. Then back down, down into the Entiat, up the shoulder of Maude to camp at Lower Ice Lake. Up the easy route of Maude and back to camp (look for the Groucho glasses near the register), then around and up to 7 finger the next day and back to camp. Big last day up and down to the Entiat, back up to Copper pass and back to Holden in time for the afternoon opening of the ice cream parlor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alasdair Posted June 11, 2002 Share Posted June 11, 2002 DAMN!!!! That is amazing. Did you think about doing a lightweight traverse? I was thinking about doing bonanza and then heading back to Holden, and then going up copper and doing a traverse over Fernow, Maude and SFJ to Phelps creek. Do you see this a possible? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haireball Posted June 11, 2002 Share Posted June 11, 2002 Bob Plumb made the second ascent of the Soviet Route on Bonanza with Dave Stutzman, back in '78 or '79. Plumb told me the rock was abysmal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted June 11, 2002 Share Posted June 11, 2002 quote: Originally posted by haireball: Bob Plumb made the second ascent of the Soviet Route on Bonanza with Dave Stutzman, back in '78 or '79. Plumb told me the rock was abysmal. Phew. Well thats it, I'm definitely not going to feed that monkey anything more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted June 11, 2002 Share Posted June 11, 2002 Alasdair - The amazing part was that at 45 I was the youngest in the group and was breathing hard to keep up with a couple of 50-somethings and one 48 year old. Your idea of a lightweight traverse sounds interesting and do-able. I would save a lot of elevation gain and loss. Up and down and up and down the Entiat valley is work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCH Posted June 18, 2002 Author Share Posted June 18, 2002 Thanks all for the Bonanza info. We ended up doing some scrambling in the Chelan-Sawtooth Ridge area instead. We decided it might be a couple of weeks early for Bonanza and may have made the right decision (for us, anyways). There were good (but distant, probably 15-20 miles from directly east across Lake Chelan) views of the Mary Green glacier and gulley route and lots of snow still appeared to be filling the gulley to the summit ridge. Our perspective was distant but the view was direct. Anyone else happen to get a look this past weekend from closer up? Anyone climb it? It'll stay on my list a while longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 24, 2002 Share Posted June 24, 2002 I saw Bonanza from the South this weekend. Rock looked good to go (no snow on south or ridge crests). Could not see the Mary Green Gl but saw the other one one on S Side. Go climb the chosspile and report it's chossination Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juan Posted June 24, 2002 Share Posted June 24, 2002 Ray: What did you climb this weekend? Â Juan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 24, 2002 Share Posted June 24, 2002 I climbed onto a barstool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted June 24, 2002 Share Posted June 24, 2002 I climbed onto an anonymous female "human" recipient. Â [ 06-24-2002, 09:07 AM: Message edited by: trask ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juan Posted June 24, 2002 Share Posted June 24, 2002 With a view of Bonanza Peak? Â As for Bonanza, Bob Davis, Ian M. and Jim Nelson did a ridge route next to Mary Green route two summers ago in late July. S.E. or S.W. ridge. I forget which one, but it has a feature called the Yellow Step which the avoided for lack of pro. I was supposed to go (in fact I planned the trip), but my second son was born the night before we were to leave. They did the route, rapped the normal route, and lived to tell about it. Bob can be reached here via BobInc. Jim is PMS. Hope this helps. Â John Sharp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 24, 2002 Share Posted June 24, 2002 Juan,  I care not to share my ventures with everyone. Marek would be disappointed  [ 06-24-2002, 09:16 AM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 24, 2002 Share Posted June 24, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Juan, Â I care not to share my ventures with everyone. Marek would be disappointed No dude, post the Hard Core TR!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 24, 2002 Share Posted June 24, 2002 Hike Hike Hike. Spy new routes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 24, 2002 Share Posted June 24, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Hike Hike Hike. Spy new routes All those new routes were free soloed by Helmy Beckey in his underwear c. 1965. Fred did not include them in his guidebook cause they were feuding by then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 24, 2002 Share Posted June 24, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: quote:Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Hike Hike Hike. Spy new routes All those new routes were free soloed by Helmy Beckey in his underwear c. 1965. Fred did not include them in his guidebook cause they were feuding by then I know so now I can make my claim since Helmey is in Germany he'll never know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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