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OlegV

Cassin Ridge 2006

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oleg, you crazy bastard, don't do expeditions w/ total stangers! find a goofy-fuck friend and get 'em fired up...

 

i't trade you - if you go cragging w/ me this weekend, i'll let you lead all the hard ice pitches on denali smile.gif

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i't trade you - if you go cragging w/ me this weekend, i'll let you lead all the hard ice pitches on denali smile.gif

 

got something rolling this weekend - may get cancelled because of weather. Love to do Beackon Rock some day. Got to climb it in crampons though

grin.gif

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it'll be rolling round here as soon as the sky starts shitting endless quantities of water - after we get hard at the butte we can move over to nolse's uber-secret projects in the gorge!

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it'll be rolling round here as soon as the sky starts shitting endless quantities of water - after we get hard at the butte we can move over to nolse's uber-secret projects in the gorge!

 

Assuming I can hike my fat ass up them in the first place cry.gif

 

I can't believe Oleg has been on this site this long and not heard/seen DT night! Oleg and Ivan how soon you want to start back up?

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I can't believe Oleg has been on this site this long and not heard/seen DT night!

 

Of cause, I heard of DT nights - you guys have crazy schedule though - first, I have to get unemployed. cry.gif

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crazy schedule? it's midweek,usually, and just in the evenign whenever you can show - come winter we're always doing it int he dark anyway...

 

nolse, i can start back up this coming week - now that's scool's here it'll have to suffice for my clibing fix during the week

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Oleg, look me up. I live a mile away from Rocky Butte. NOLSe will get a date set, you can meet me here, and we'll go scrape up some rock. Maybe we can rope Donn into that, eh?

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Oleg, look me up. I live a mile away from Rocky Butte. NOLSe will get a date set, you can meet me here, and we'll go scrape up some rock. Maybe we can rope Donn into that, eh?

 

Chad, I didn't realize you live that close to rock! thumbs_up.gif How many potential lines are up there?

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The main difficulty for a North-West climber in any long expedition is the lack of beer:

6323climbbeer.jpg

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I will be out all next week trying to remove what skin I have left from my hands and in general trying to kill myself so the earliest I could start back up would the 13th of Sept.

 

Ivan knows where all the lines are at... he could show you guys around. I vote we move this discussion to the PDX climb night thread and you guys hash out what nights work best for you. I'm available for up to 3 midweek nights per week anytime.

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Oleg, whatever happened to the West Rib? I'll be on that route in May and I think I have a great partner lined up already. Could use a third though...

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Clint, West Rib is my second choice. I am definetly doing Denali in May. All depends how hard I train on rock this winter. I still don't have a clear idea how hard the rock is on Cassin. Thanks for the invite!

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Either way, if we climb together or seperate, you should plan a few extra days after Denali (Should we somehow survive...haha) to hang out in Anchorage. Plus, We'll have to celebrate and get rowdy in Talkeetna after our return. Hopefully the Fairview will be open by then.

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I still don't have a clear idea how hard the rock is on Cassin.

 

Attached is a photo of the first rock crux- steep, and somewhat friable, but good protection. Felt like 5.8 with a pack, but probably more like 5.4

497477-cassin08.JPG.1f362c0807bba689e6846e0f7bddd4bb.JPG

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Attached is another photo, this one looking down the crux rock pitch in the second rock band at 16,000'. Looks a little intimidating as you approach from below but is actually very straightforward with good protection.

 

There is nothing truly difficult on the Cassin, there is just a lot of technical climbing stretched over a huge amount of terrain with all the attendant issues of Alaska climbing--- most of all, luck with the weather.

Good luck! bigdrink.gif

497478-cassin16.JPG.33651407945320fb3cfbc73f7ef324e8.JPG

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