first ascent [TR] TR- Johannesburg Mt. - CK route F.A. Grade V, 5.10b, AI 3+ 8/27/2005

[Mos_Chillin]

Cascade Climbers high on glands and other things give celebratory consent

[Lowell_Skoog]

Loren,

 

Please see your private messages for another copy of this post...

 

One of the NWMJ editors directed me to your recent post in which you reported that your Johannesburg photo was used in the journal without your permission. If that is correct, I sincerely apologize. I will post a public apology and I will be happy to remove the photo from the journal if you wish.

 

Editing the journal with semi-independent volunteers is a challenging task. Our goal is to do as professional a job as we can (including getting permission for everything we publish). Sometimes communication doesn't work as well as it should.

 

This is not an excuse, just an attempt to say that we did not intend to run your photo without your permission. I would like to make things right with you.

 

Best regards,

Lowell Skoog

lowell.skoog@alpenglow.org

[Lowell_Skoog]

Loren and I have been in touch and we have decided to replace the more heavily processed version of the photo with his original version. Thanks, Loren, for your understanding and patience. The NWMJ team will be revising our permissions process to make sure photo permissions don't "fall through the cracks" as happened in this case.

[CascadeClimber]

I know that Jens' and my Formidable route has at least one repeat. Has anyone repeated or heard of the C-K being repeated?

[JasonG]

1 hour ago, CascadeClimber said:

Has anyone repeated or heard of the C-K being repeated?

I have not heard of any repeats. Skinning up the road this past spring underneath it, I was wondering myself.  It scares me, like most everyone else probably!

And, it's great to see a few new posts from you @CascadeClimber!

[Gaucho Argentino]

Looking at the first half of climbing in the first pic, on the slabs directly under the fall line of the glacier, do you think is there a way up much to the right against the wall? It seems that in there you could be out of the way of ice falling from above?

Happy you guys made it to tell the story, rad big-balls sorta climbing...

[CascadeClimber]

On 12/20/2018 at 9:05 AM, Gaucho Argentino said:

Looking at the first half of climbing in the first pic, on the slabs directly under the fall line of the glacier, do you think is there a way up much to the right against the wall? It seems that in there you could be out of the way of ice falling from above?

Happy you guys made it to tell the story, rad big-balls sorta climbing...

The rock is compact and polished; not much in the way of handholds or gear. The first half of the climbing, up into the basin, did not feel highly threatened to me; there is a lot of lower angle rock between the snouts of the glaciers and that area. The upper slab section, which we found entirely unprotectable and lies in the fall line of the right-hand glacier, might be avoidable climber's right (looking at some other photos), but you do still have to pass the fall line of that right ice cliff. Doing so on class 2 or 3 would be faster though, than the 4/5 we encountered. You'd have to cross the larger, right-hand outflow twice though, which could be an issue depending on volume. It's not a small amount of water, even in later summer.

Almost 12 years later and I still get excited thinking about this route; having gazed up at it, studied it in photos, and dreamed about what it might be like in those upper basins for years. getting our asses handed to us the first try. Getting more and more hopeful as each successive obstacle was passed on the second try. So, so many rappels and so much downclimbing in the dark down the east ridge after getting the to summit. Shivering with one sleeping bag and a space blanket just below the CJ Col after 24 hours on the move, wondering if the predicted rain was going to soak us, and the glorious acres of blueberries we found for breakfast the next morning. There is an experience doing a new route that is entirely unlike repeating; no tat, no cairns, never looking at a route description or trying to figure out if I'm 'going the right way'. Look up, choose the way that looks like it goes, then go find out if it really does. Beautiful simplicity and true adventure.

[JasonG]

Thanks @CascadeClimber, great insights!