[TR] Squamish Smoke Bluffs- Several 8/21/2005

[ctardi]

Climb: Squamish Smoke Bluffs-Several

 

Date of Climb: 8/21/2005

 

Trip Report:

My boss, his daughter, a co-worker, and I all happened to be in squamish with our climbing gear...well, that much we planned. We didn't end up making it to the Smoke Bluffs untill about ten in the morning, and by that time is was quite busy. On the way in, we found a photo op, but, the camera batteries died. Being as smart as we where, nobody had extras, so this trip report will have to be without pictures.

 

We first walked up to Pixie's Corner, but it was unfortunatly full. Didn't even try Burgers and Fries, as it was a Sunday, and is notoriously busy on weekends. We took the superman rope up to Penny Lane, and after some decision making, decided that we would do Quarryman as our first climb. This is a 35 meter, 5.8 with lots of jamming and laybacks. The leader accidently took the variation of 5.10b, and had a difficult time getting over. In this getting over, we ended up with what seemed like 100lbs of rope drag, as the rope was running through a flake.

 

After the laboured effort of pulling up the slack, and rapping down, I decided that I would like to try this one placing trad gear on top rope. The two girls climbed whilst I racked up, and received some pointers on gear palcements. The first fifteen to twenty feet didn't warrent gear placements, and we didn't have enough wide gear for it. On the first ledge, tossed in a cam, and pressed onwords. Doing fine, placed 3 cams, and a bomber hex before the crux. Going to place a small cam just before the crux, I got it jammed in the crack. I only had one foothold, and had to use both hands to get that baby free. I am sure I would have made Elvis jelous.

 

Through the crux, I was tired and sketching out, and ended up running out about 10 feet, twice. Then found a rest and calmed myself. Up to this point there were two falls. After the crux, I placed 2 or 3 medium cams, and a hex. Near the top, I was able to place a large cam, in what seemed to be a bomber spot. As it turns out, rope drag made it almost walk totally out. After pulling up the rope, on my rap down, all I had to do was touch the sling, and it popped out. I was very close to being out $80.

 

The others then did a 5.10 slab, and it was time to head out for lunch.

 

After quite the struggle, and sam yelling "Oh SHIT" in a fall, then quickly appologizing to everyone in the crag, making for a laugh, she compleeted the climb, and on the way out, I decided to do my first ever trad lead on Clean Starts, a 5.7-5.9 set of cracks, about 20 feet long. Since it was my first lead, I over protected it, placing 1 hex, 3 forged friends, and 2 other cams. 2 of my placements were marginable, but it worked out fine, with no falls.

 

We then headed for lunch around 4:00, and decided to conclude the day with some murrin park action. Noting exciting happened, I almost led an 8, but decided against it.

 

Can't wait to get out again soon!

[tattooed_climber]

congrats on the first lead..

[Dru]

Good god, two out of six marginal placements on a 5m long crack! Living dangerously

 

Funny trip report

[thelawgoddess]

if you're working on your leads, i'd recommend klahanie crack on your next visit. it takes gear well (too well if you're prone to overprotecting), there isn't really stuff around for your rope to get caught on, and the jams are superb.

[ctardi]

if you're working on your leads, i'd recommend klahanie crack on your next visit. it takes gear well (too well if you're prone to overprotecting), there isn't really stuff around for your rope to get caught on, and the jams are superb.

 

 

It's on my tick list...just not sure that I will get out again any time soon.