Colin Posted May 20, 2002 Share Posted May 20, 2002 Soloed the North Face of Graybeard today. The log crossing is easy, and obvious to find. There is a bootpack to the base of the face. I descended to the NE, and hiked around the E side of the peak, rather than descend via Easy Pass, which Nelson reccomends. I'm not certain, but I think that my descent route was significantly faster, and I would reccomend it (if you need more details, e-mail me). I had to leave some pins and 60m of 6mm rope! I self-belayed at one point, but the rope snagged when I tried to retrieve it Overall, a fun route and a good snag by the Skoog brothers. However, unless we get quite a cold snap I think that this was the last weekend to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted May 20, 2002 Share Posted May 20, 2002 right, on! was there much ice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted May 20, 2002 Share Posted May 20, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Colin: I had to leave some pins and 60m of 6mm rope! I self-belayed at one point, but the rope snagged when I tried to retrieve it I'm thinking you'll be leaving equipment on every climb you do from now on just in case somebody decides to question your integrity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Posted May 20, 2002 Author Share Posted May 20, 2002 There was a good deal of ice, it just wasn't all very good. The ice was rotten in places, but atleast it seemed to get better whenever you really needed it to. Like the Skoogs, I didn't take the directissima finish, but still had to deal with cornices a little bit. Hehe, I sure hope not, Pope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Posted May 20, 2002 Author Share Posted May 20, 2002 Oh yeah, I also think that the Skoog's gave it a very modest rating. You will be very unpleasantly suprised if you only expect ice up to 65 degrees. There were a couple bulges to 80/85 degrees, and several at 70 degrees. The mixed step was quite hard, and the face has a good deal of vertical elevation gain. If Triple Couloirs is given a seriousness rating of III/IV, then I think Graybeard is definitely IV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted May 20, 2002 Share Posted May 20, 2002 Damn it, I knew I should have taken you up on your offer to climb. Nice work! I am guessing that your's is the first solo ascent of the route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted May 20, 2002 Share Posted May 20, 2002 Damn, Colin. It looks like you're rapidly heading to fame and a big name. One of the next super-stars of climbing?? Sweet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Posted May 20, 2002 Author Share Posted May 20, 2002 Unfortunately, it was quite warm for ice climbing. I climbed as fast as I could and was fine, but by the time I had descended and hiked around to below the face, lots of stuff was falling down. While I was climbing, I think that the temperature was around 33 degrees. On a side note: I've been using my Cobra's all winter, but yesterday used my straight-shafted Shrikes. Both of my wrists are quite sore today, and I am wondering if it is because of the lack of the lower bend in the shaft. Has this happened to any of you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeadam Posted May 20, 2002 Share Posted May 20, 2002 Yes, the straight shafted tools increase the pronation in your wrists when you swing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juan Posted May 20, 2002 Share Posted May 20, 2002 Colin: I seriously doubt you climbed this in a day, and I want pictures. Just kiddin', bud. Great job. What's next? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted May 20, 2002 Share Posted May 20, 2002 Colin what's next ? Northwest Passage in Squish? Never been repeated !heheh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lowell_Skoog Posted May 20, 2002 Share Posted May 20, 2002 Congratulations. Glad you had a safe trip. I remember being relieved when I heard my brothers had climbed that face successfully. I always thought it looked insecure and their description didn't dispell the notion. My brother Gordy was the driver behind that climb, although a number of people had their eyes on it. Was this the second ascent? I haven't heard of others, but I'm not all that well connected to the grapevine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Posted May 20, 2002 Author Share Posted May 20, 2002 Cavey, I don't think so, I'm a weenie sketched-out rock climber. Lowell, I was wondering that myself. Nelson writes, "The record snow year of 1998-99 created perfect conditions: sufficient snow cover, but with most of the loose stuff sluffed off." I'm not sure if this means that someone climbed it and reported good conditions, or if it was merely speculation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted May 21, 2002 Share Posted May 21, 2002 What were the temps when you did it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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