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ivan

slesse conditions?

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anyone been there recently and know if there's snow on the bivy ledge on the ne butt route? after running out of water on the index traverse w/ no snow on route i feel all cranky...

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well we did it a week ago. and there was still two small patches of snow above the huge bivy platform. i cant really give any more info than that. there is water flowing on the bypass glacier slabs but other than that and the snow patch there is no water anywhere and the descent is bare. i ran out of water after getting off the mountain and didnt get any until the car.

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Was just up there last week (18/19) and Highclimb's info is still pretty dead on. No snow at the nice bivy and only a couple of useless scraps a bit higher up. We packed about a gallon a piece, which was about right for our 1.5 day ascent. Best to fill up on the ultra-abundant berries on the approach too! bigdrink.gif

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hmmm - depressing. so all the snow above the bivy is inaccesible/too-high/too-little?

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Its really not a big deal. From the remains of the pocket glacier (fresh water), its only 2 hours to the bivy site. Pack up 3-4 L of water per 2. Send the rest of the shite the next morning (cold, shaded until after 9am) and be well off and into the trees by noon, no sweat. There is water on the way back, about an hour from the car. We ended up dumping 2+ L of water in the morning because we had brought too much and wanted to climb faster.

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no snow on the route as of 8/21. you can fill up water just before the start of the climb. we did drink a bunch on slabs and we had 3L for the route and ended up drinking only one. btw- i think it's easy to do this route in a day with a light pack. you'll be in a shade most of the time, exept for the descent. btw there is only about 10 pitches of real climbing.

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btw there is only about 10 pitches of real climbing.

 

more like 4, friggin lightweight! rolleyes.gif

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you know, as i was climbing this thing, my thought were like: shit, what an overgrown choss heap! this would be great route in winter! i am serious- this route should be winter classic, a lot turf and plenty of ledges to sleep on in a tent. i am surprise that it has only 1 winter ascent so far. the rock is made for dry- tooling too.

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sky and i did this and got back y-day. thanks for the useful beta. as dberdinka said, a shitty car will get you as far as a humvee. there's plenty of water coursing down the slabs at the base of the route. no water after that until you've descended all the way down the backside, down the hella-steep slesse creek trail, and onto the old overgrown road. very pleasant surprise to find so much awesome granite and wierd, solid, textured rock - awesome climb!

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