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[TR] - 8/18/2005 Prussic West Ridge


neswstar

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Climb: - Prussic - West Ridge (3 girls and a virgin)

 

Date of Climb: 8/18/2005

 

Trip Report:

We took a virgin up with us 3 girls last weekend to climb his first alpine rock. And what a trip it was. Drove up and hiked it in Friday to the north end of Snow lakes. The girlfriends got there early and found us the perfect spot. The water felt great after the hot hike in. The bugs kept way below their reported level. Up early on Saturday, hitting trail at 5:30 to beat the heat. We took the short cut ( non-existing climbers trail) between the lakes to the saddle – fun scramble.

 

 

Squeezed through the tightest of cracks and came out to see a family of 4 goats waiting for us to pee. Took a breather at the saddle, found balance rock and scrambled up to the base. So far the boy is hanging tough playing gentleman carrying rack and rope. (and winning his way into our hearts, or at least on the climb)

 

 

We let the girlfriends go first, and sandwiched the boy by getting him to lead first. All went well, on pitch 3 he took care of the friction slab easily (I’m talking rock here) (and what is with all the protection left behind? ) and then he muscled through pitch 5 the lie back figure jam without seeing Elvis. (although I had a few visions of my own). (Girlfriend quote of the day - “5.6 my ass”) Gave me the butt squeezing 5.4 chimney (damn that was tight). I think the one on the right might be a bit easier. The girlfriends were waiting at the top with high fives, hugs and sandwiches. Met a couple of other friends on top and got some great photos.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/upload/489150-thegirlfriends2.JPG

 

The double rapped showed signs of getting stuck so we switched to single raps – no major issues finding slings, although next time would keep further left to avoid all the traversing we did. Took the long road back to base camp winding though all the lake country and stopping to soak and view the waterfalls. Hard not to want to breath it all in. Great dinner, early breakfast, brunch at Crystals in Leavenworth, fruit stand in Yakima and home by 5. GREAT WEEKEND !

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Both parties took way more gear than needed. There is lots of natural protection so it was nice to have 2 cordelettes and 4 or so BAS (big ass slings). Most of the gear used was mid size nuts and cams (pinkie of course). We brought and used a #3 BD cam but could have easily done with out. Found 2 stuck pieces on the friction slab (backed both up) along with the old piton. Rope drag was everything they said it would be.

489150-thegirlfriends2.thumb.JPG.98debc81066b13150d75ff1ff67986fe.JPG

Edited by neswstar
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