Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
skykilo

[TR] Early Morning Spire- So Big Retard 8/14/2005

Recommended Posts

Climb: Early Morning Spire-So Big Retard

 

Date of Climb: 8/14/2005

 

Trip Report:

Hannah's a sport. She followed me on some retarded goose chase up Early Morning Spire when I blew it and got on the rock about 1k below the proper start.

 

Here's a photo by Lowell Skoog:

EarlyDots.jpg

The upper dot shows the approximate location of the start to the route in Kearney's book. We started at the other dot to make it a real climb.

 

Crappy disposable photo that shows the first seven pitches of what we did and some of the much higher pitches:

Dumbass.jpg

 

Some crappy climbing photos:

Climb1.jpg

Climb3.jpg

Penultimate.jpg

Summit2.jpg

 

 

Gear Notes:

Shoulda had the Courvoisier I left at camp for the unplanned bivy.

 

Approach Notes:

Trail, firn, scramble, firn, climb, glacier, scramble...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

wow that sounds like a megathon. I remember having fun on the actual route though. It was still a long day (got back to car at midnight) even on route. Your red dotted line shows you going up the left skyline but I think the typical line is up the middle, then traverse over right to the right side. At least that's how we did it. You should have tried that monstrous offwidth at the top to complete the epic.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We were never actually anywhere near 'the route' of which you speak. The dotted line at the top is more suggestive than anything else. Still had fun though!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Awsome!

Is the upper portion as good as Nelson & Potterfield would make you believe?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sky: you're crazy. nice work!

Marble Creek cirque is so beautiful and wild. looking down into the massive drop of forrest and devils club inspires one to climb up and out!

 

great TR on your site. so how did you like the west arete on the way out? wink.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice job! That cirque is fucking awesome. i loved the climb of dorado needle. I definiely recommend you go back and do it, it is a nice climb fer sure.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×